Build a PC: Simple Questions - August 13, 2021 |
- Simple Questions - August 13, 2021
- What is the best gpu for $700
- Would a 5800x over a 5600x be a good move for me?
- If you live in the UK, you can find 6600XT at or near UK msrp at overclockers UK.
- 90 degrees i9-10900K and 100 degrees max temperature
- Finished my new build last night! I wanted to say thank you to this community for all the help you all gave me throughout the process. Lian Li lancool 2 mesh rgb, Ryzen 7 3800x, asus B550-F mobo, 32 GB g skill Trident Z DDR4 ram, corsair HX850 psu, and zotac RTX 3070 ti. Image in comments
- NZXT H510 - no intake fans on the front?
- I’m at a loss. Advice?
- CPU Always 100%
- My PC Building Guide Part 2: From Building to Driving
- Upgrade CPU and/or buy a GPU?
- Looking for the best 1080p144hz monitor for under $240
- Should I upgrade from a 2070 to a 3080ti?
- Hi guys, I’m building a pc to play warzone and I’m stuck on which graphics card to use. I’m using a Ryzen 5 2600 and 16 gb ram. I want to get 120 FPS on warzone but want to spend as little as possible on the gpu, any suggestions?
- PC keeps rebooting and beeping
- Dual 3090 Hybrid AIO
- Rate this build.
- Found a Zotac GeForce RTX 3060Ti Twin Edge LHR, new for £499.99 ($689.74)
- New PC won't boot -- CPU Led ?
- Dark rock 4 pro or arctic Liquid freezer ii 360
- Transferring 8.1 OEM key to new build by installing old build's SSD?
- Bought a pre-built, maybe my biggest mistake yet?
- Tried installing new ram stick, pc started being stuck on reset. Went back to old ram, issue persisted. (I have tried all the slots)
- Do GPU manufacturers still sell old cards?
| Simple Questions - August 13, 2021 Posted: 13 Aug 2021 05:00 AM PDT This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post.
Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged. Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail! Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 12:48 AM PDT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Would a 5800x over a 5600x be a good move for me? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 03:23 AM PDT Pairing with a 3060ti, probably going to try streaming but outside of that I dont see an immediate use for the extra cores and I'm sure I could get away with 6 even for that. That being said, I anticipate an upgrade from 5600x to 5800x eventually regardless as my need for core count inevitably increases and it is probably optimal to spend the extra $100 now than later. Thoughts? [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| If you live in the UK, you can find 6600XT at or near UK msrp at overclockers UK. Posted: 13 Aug 2021 04:26 AM PDT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 90 degrees i9-10900K and 100 degrees max temperature Posted: 13 Aug 2021 08:31 AM PDT I upgraded from an i5-10400 to i9-10900K. Didn't know my old cpu cooler would be too weak (coolermaster 212) but shouldn't temps be lower even with a 212? 90 degrees with 100 max feels like there is no cooling at all, that can't be normal? I will buy a Noctua before I touch this again. Edit: temps are measured when gaming [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 12:22 PM PDT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| NZXT H510 - no intake fans on the front? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 10:50 AM PDT I've got the NZXT H510 and was curious about the airflow, apparently there some that recommend to have the front fans as exhaust, which got me wondering if anyone here got experience with the case and If there is anything you'd recommend [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 12:57 PM PDT Update: tried a new SSD to no avail To make a long story short, i fucked up. I just bought myself a computer, and I was excitedly installing software on my sisters PC from my own HDD. We were engrossed in conversation, I wasn't thinking and I unplugged my internal harddrive from her computer while it was still on. Do you know whenever you put two magnets together and there's no attraction and they force each other away? That's what I felt in my hand when I pulled up the harddrive. The computer died completely. No lights, no power at all. I first replaced the CMOS battery, no luck. I then bought a new power supply, no luck. I then bought a new motherboard. The computer would light up, the GPU and motherboard would glow and the fans would turn. But I was getting no signal, the PC wouldn't post. So I replaced the CPU and ram and the computer still won't post and my monitor just says no signal. I tried both the motherboard HDMI slot and GPU hdmi slot. Does anybody have any suggestions? I didn't replace my sisters SSD. Could that be the problem? Thank you for any responses and please ask any questions if you have any [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 08:10 AM PDT Solved: CPUs Recommended Power plan causing CPU issues Help! Post says it all, CPU always showing 100% usage in task manager. Quick math on all processes doesn't reach 100% (except for sub-processes where a lot of 0. X% might hit it.) Often its task manager itself, service host widows manager, wmi provider host, corsair service, microsoft compatibility telemetry, and system itself, but each of these are typically around 8-5%. Build below:
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| My PC Building Guide Part 2: From Building to Driving Posted: 12 Aug 2021 09:51 PM PDT Hello all, Welcome to my Part 2 of my building guide series! Previously, we discussed how to find which parts would work for you and how to optimize your buying (Part 1). I really like the feedback that I had on the post and a lot of you had some awesome insight that I didn't think of before. In this part, I'll cover my steps to building a pc and everything related to your first time setup. This won't be so much like a step-by-step guide as there are hundreds of videos online of what to do, but notes along the way. Like the previous section, this one will be mostly geared towards new or intermediate builders, so if you're looking for how to make a custom waterlooped system and you have a good level of experience, much of this will be known info. Either way, I hope I can at least give one or two tips that will make your life a bit easier. Background: I've been building PCs since I was 12 and currently make custom builds for a local computer/repair shop almost daily. In total, I've probably put together over 500 computers in the past 5 years alone and have seen all kinds of issues from new and experienced builders alike. My neat little personal record for fastest build is 8 minutes and I've managed to put together 10 computers in under 2 hours, though they were basic office PCs and I don't count loading and all that. I figure this list will basically be a list of issues I've seen in the past and the best ways to combat them. Build:What you NEED before you begin: Like any good project, you'll need the right set of tools for the job. The USUAL basic breakdown is this:
Thankfully almost every component of a pc uses a #2 phillips head with the exception of OEM or older machines like older HP desktops that use those star screws. I HIGHLY recommend having a magnetic tip on your screwdriver because it not only makes it harder to drop screws, but you can more easily pick them back up if they drop down in a tough to reach spot. The #1 phillips head will generally be used for the m.2 drive, and the hex nut driver is used for the standoffs in the event you need to change around the preinstalled ones, but I'll discuss that further down. Is there anything you recommend for tools? Realistically, you'll survive just fine with a regular magnetic screwdriver and the hex nut driver. If you want to reduce clutter and have something with even more versatility, getting something like an iFixIt kit that has tons of different screwdriver tips with their sizes labeled can save you lots of headaches looking for different tools. They often come with other useful things like a plastic forceps and a magnetizer in case the driver isn't working too strongly. Personally, I use some offbrand precision screwdriver set with ~140 pieces I got on Amazon for like $20 since I know iFixIt kits can be pretty expensive. Okay I have everything I need, what now? Before you put anything together, you should plan out the build. Think of what sort of connections you'll need and double check that everything should fit together with no conflicts of space nor compatibility. Open your empty case, and somewhere inside you'll (usually) find a box of hardware and a manual for the case. Look in your motherboard box and find the manual. This is to me the most important part of the build: if you are lost or confused, READ THE MANUAL. Not every motherboard is the same and neither is the case. You can watch every guide on YouTube with different combinations of parts but nothing will go together exactly the same unless you have the same exact parts. By reading the manual, you'll understand what each part means and how the manufacturer recommends putting it together. There will be multiple times throughout this guide where I'll reference this section, so if you see "(See "what now?"), that just means to read the manual. I'm ready to build, where do I start? The first thing I do is place the CPU into the motherboard, following the guides for your socket. The motherboard during this part will be sitting on top the box it came in while on a flat, level surface. From there, install the RAM into the correct DIMM slots on the board (See "what now?") if you're unsure of what the correct order is, but generally it will be #2 and #4 first, counting from closest to CPU outwards. If you have any m.2 drives to install, do that now as well. Now, if you have a less cumbersome air cooler like a stock cooler or basically anything that isn't a hulking tower, go ahead and install that, ensuring you have removed any protective cover on the heatsink and applied thermal paste if it isn't already on the bottom of the cooler. If you have an AIO you want to install, put the backplate on now, but DON'T put the water block on yet. Sometimes, the backplate will screw in through the front to secure it, other times it will just sit there, so I recommend just a little scotch tape to hold it in place until it's time to install the block later. Common Mistakes #1: Although most of this part is plug and play, there are some common sticking points here.
What about static? Static discharge is really not nearly as much of a concern as it used to be. Just make sure you're on flat, solid surface (so no carpet with your grandpa's tube socks) and if you feel concerned that you may be holding the charge, touching any metal object (the empty case, for example) will get rid of it. Prebuild Testing: This step is optional but can be helpful. If you're not confident that you're parts all work yet, you can outboard your components. At this stage, you'll have the board on the box with the CPU, RAM, and potentially GPU if you don't have integrated graphics available all connected to your power supply. This somewhat resembles a test bench, but basically you're just looking to have everything turn on and boot into the BIOS menu. You can turn it on by either shorting the JFP1 Power Switch pins with a screwdriver, using an external power switch attached there, or some motherboards will have their own power button. If you're sure everything is connected properly and you're not getting a signal because of a hardware failure, better to know now then after you've spent an hour or two getting everything tied tightly down in your case. Combining case and board: Next I like to put the board into the case. Before you do this though, check out the PCIe slots on the back of the case. If the covers are the type that have to be bent off, try to get those off before installing the board. If they're held in with screws, it doesn't matter. One way to tell which ones you'll need to remove is to lay the board in the case and hold your GPU above the slot you'll connect to later and see which covers will need to come off. The CRUCIAL step here is making sure you have the right number of standoffs in the right places. Forgetting the standoffs altogether will almost guarantee you wreck your stuff, so count the number of holes in your board for the number of standoffs you'll need. Then make sure they're aligned properly, you can put your board in the case and see if each hole has a standoff underneath. After your standoffs are set, install the I/O shield if it's not integrated onto the board, and slap that bad boy in there. From there, I try to get all the cables for the case's front panel (The pinholes for the switches/LEDS, the HD Audio cable, any USB 2.0s and 3.0s, etc.) but not the fans until later. Common Mistakes #2:
Installing the drives and PSU: Many newer cases today have made planning for this step far more important thanks to the power supply shroud and HDD cages you see often. First, if you do have an HDD cage, install the drive then push it as far from the back of the case as comfortable to allow more room for the cables later. Otherwise, just get the SSD/HDD into the correct spot but you can wait on the cables. If you're still one of the old school guys like me who like having DVD drives, install that on the 5.25" bay in your case now as well. Next, if you're using a modular power supply, plan out every single connection you'll need and ensure you have the cables attached the right way now as it'll save time later. Then, install the Power Supply with the fan facing down (as long as there is a mesh bottom on the case) and use the screws the PSU manufacturer includes if possible. Get all the power supply connections attached (ATX, CPU, SATA, and potentially MOLEX) and here I would loosely ziptie the cables without cutting the ends off. PROTIP: Loosely securing the cables will help keep your cable management clean and by not cutting the ends off, you can more easily see them in the case you need to remove them until you're ready to clean everything up at the end since they're often dark colored and thin. (Optional) AIO Water Cooler Installation: As I mentioned previously, you should have the backplate attached to the board. Get the radiator fans installed in the proper direction for your desired airflow. Now, make sure you know where the radiator will go, but always strive for a top-mount if possible because this will give the best flow of water with the fewest air bubbles. Then, install the water block onto the CPU, and connect its 3/4 pin (not the RGB if there is one) into the necessary port. Many motherboards will have a pinout that says something like "CPU_OPT" or "AIO_PUMP" that you should use first, but if it is absent, either use the "CHA_FAN#" or a fan controller if you have one. Now you should install the radiator at your desired location and feed the fan cables through the back of the case if there is room for cable management. Modern AIOs are pretty simple to install so you shouldn't have any issue getting this on. Common Mistakes #3:
Getting the GPU installed: This is a pretty straightforward step. If you haven't already, remove the PCIe slot covers on the case. When you install the card now, make sure you have peeled ALL of the plastic film on the card. Many manufacturers will put plastic on the I/O of the card, on the plastic casing of the card itself, and even on the center of the fans. All the plastic does it retain heat and be annoying, plus the feeling of removing plastic off a smooth surface is always satisfying. Then, like the RAM, push the GPU into the slot until you hear a quality click of the clip. Always make sure to connect to the highest PCIe slot, as usually it is the one with the most reinforcement, and some boards will not give power to each lane equally. Connect any VGA cables you need to and now you should have everything you need to run your PC excluding the accessories like additional fans and LED strips. Common Mistakes #4:
Finalizing the build: This section is more of a gloss than anything else. To start, install any and all remaining fans if you have the space and consult the associated manual if you are using a controller on how to connect everything properly. This same thing will apply for RGB. IMPORTANT: If you have a 4 pin RGB connector on the board with only a 3 pin ARGB fan or vice-versa, DO NOT try to connect them as the 4 pin draws 12V and the 3 pin draws 5V, so you're on a quick way to frying your stuff otherwise. What direction should your fans face? Most fans will have arrows to show you airflow, but if it doesn't I use the general rule that air will flow from the side with the blades exposed to the side with the plastic in front of the blades. As for cable management, you will now tighten down any cable ties you've made and clip the ends off. Remember the scotch tape from the AIO plate? Take that off too. Double check everything to make sure your connections are solid and in the right spot, then you can now connect your power cable, monitor, and peripherals!
Driving Your Machine:Congratulations! You've built your PC! How do you know if it works? This guide will only focus on a Windows gaming PC, but if you'd prefer linux, there are guides out there for that as well. The first thing to do is make sure your computer POSTS by showing the motherboard manufacturer logo and some options to enter the BIOS (usually pressing DELETE or f12). Do this, and now you're in your BIOS. Set the date and time to whatever time you're at. Then, make sure everything is detected in the BIOS. You'll see an option to turn on XMP or DOCP, but I leave this off until after I have installed Windows, because these are technically overclocking and (very rarely) can cause slight instability when installing. Now you're ready to install Windows. Installing Windows: With your favorite USB drive that looks like a sliced banana when open and a working computer, install the Windows Media Creation Tool for free on Microsoft's website. Follow the instructions for a bootable disk, and you're good to go. Attach the USB to your new PC and turn the computer on. Usually since your SSD/HDD is empty, it will automatically detect the Windows USB and boot off of that but if it doesn't, press whatever function key is required to go to Boot Menu and select the UEFI partition on the USB. The install from here should be pretty straightforward, select whatever version you want but don't enter the product key yet. I ALWAYS wait to enter the product key until after I have everything loaded and updated on my computers as the key may embed onto the motherboard and on the off chance something is wrong with the board, you might have just wasted your product key. There are ways to get it back but it's quite the hassle. Post-install Windows setup: The first thing you should do once you've gotten to the desktop is to see if you have internet. Some motherboards will not have the LAN driver preinstalled, so if you don't have a WiFI enabled board you'll need any old 802.11 WiFi adapter for this step. Then, set your time zone to wherever you're at, and go to Windows Update. Let that run and you should get any basic drivers, including your LAN driver for wired connections. Sometimes Windows will install a graphics driver, so if you see your screen flicker and whatnot, don't be afraid. Windows will also usually need to restart a few times, so take this time to relax and be proud of yourself for successfully bringing new life into this world. Once it's done, now you can go back and enable XMP/DOCP for gaming. Driver Installation: After Windows is fully updated, the next step is to get the most recent drivers installed. In your browser (Microsoft Edge for now), find your EXACT model motherboard on google. For example, you can search "MSI MAG z490 Tomahawk" and go to the manufacturer's website for that product. Then, under support or downloads or whatever they call it, this is where you'll find what you need. Hopefully the manufacturer will provide programs like Dragon Center or Armoury Crate that you can install and use that program to update drivers, but if not, you'll want to download any necessary drivers for your system manually. All you have to do is download the file, right click and extract the folder, then running the .exe file. Once you've completed all that, do the same for your graphics card. If you have an Nvidia card, just go to their page and the same goes for AMD where you'll select your model card and download the .exe. If you end up downloading the wrong drivers, most of the time nothing will happen as it will detect this conflict before installing, but if you REALLY mess it up, just reinstall Windows. Quality of Life/My Suggestions: Now that everything is installed, I like to run a program called PatchMyPC Home Updater. This compiles over 300 useful programs like web browsers, hardware monitors, and game launchers like steam. It makes it far easier to download all of them at once by checking boxes rather than going to each place online for each program. Before I ship out computers, I also like to run hardware tests and monitors like Unigine or 3Dmark for benchmarking, or Memtest/Prime95/Furmark for actual hardware burn-in testing. This way you can identify if any components have any hidden problems or if you may have put something together poorly. After I pass all the tests is when I'll finally activate my copy of windows. Well there you have it, this is the end of Part 2: Building and Driving. I hope I addressed most of the common issues people come across while also giving my preferred method of building to the best of my ability. Like last time, I appreciate any and all feedback you all provide, and I may include some edits in the future based on your responses. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and stay tuned for Part 3: Troubleshooting where it goes exactly how it sounds. There I will cover as many issues from a hardware and software level as well as common mistakes people make that reduce their PCs lifespan. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 02:11 PM PDT I have a Ryzen 3 3200g and the CPU has a built-in graphics card, after play testing it for a while, I decided I want something better. Should I consider buying a GPU and install it alongside the same processor or upgrade the processor as well to a Ryzen CPU that doesn't have a dedicated GPU. Perhaps upgrade to a Ryzen 3 3300x or maybe Ryzen 5 since I've been looking at GTX1060 cards. My main gaming intentions is Guilty Gear Strive for 60 fps at 1080p and Genshin Impact at better performance rates overall. (Yes, I'm a filthy weeb) Thanks in advance for any advice. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Looking for the best 1080p144hz monitor for under $240 Posted: 13 Aug 2021 11:03 AM PDT Recently I was able to get a 3060 which gives me a bunch of performance that I can't really use because of my monitor. I currenty have a 27" 1080 75hz va panel which is a bit lacking to say the least. I want a 27" 1080p 1440hz with good color accuracy and good response time for under 240. I know it won't be the best of the best but I just want the best for the prove bracket. Thank you in advance! (Edit 24" would also be fine) [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Should I upgrade from a 2070 to a 3080ti? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 12:14 PM PDT I've got a shot to get one for MSRP and I'm wondering if it's even worth it. I game probably an hour or two a night on my 1440 144 ultrawide. I do have a 4k 120 tv that I can connect to if I so choose as well. Still, it's over a grand and my 2070 seems to be working fine, so I'm just not sure if the performance jump justifies the cost. What do you all think? [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 03:40 PM PDT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| PC keeps rebooting and beeping Posted: 13 Aug 2021 02:31 AM PDT My PC was working perfectly until it started randomly rebooting(with this I mean that it reboots, try to start and the reboot again and so on) while using it, it eventually got so bad it wouldn't even start. So I stopped using it for a couple of months, then tried again and magically it started working agaig ( i didn't do anything to it) after a while (now) I'm back in the same situation as before. A video of the issue: https://youtu.be/ozpiS71Zj0M Anyone here could help me? Thanks to anyone in advance!! [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 05:17 AM PDT Build Help: Objective: Quiet. ML running in home office. Want to try and keep under 40 dba. Right now thinking: 5950x Noctua D15 (?) 64GB LPX Vengeance (?) Gigabyte X570S 2x 3090 Hybrid AIO 1x X550-T2 2x M.2 500G R1 (Recommendations want high TBW & speed) 2x 16TB R1 EXOS or Ironwolf (EXOS higher AFR but opinions welcome) Fractal XL7 (open to others no window needed) PSU debate. G/P/T 1200/1300/1500/1600 Think I can get by w/ Super Flower Plat 1200 but just not sure. Recommendations please. Have a few Arctic P14 PWMs left over but willing to consider other options. AIO mounting advice very much appreciated. Thinking thru options but struggling with layout. Am I missing anything else here? Thanks for reading! [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 02:31 PM PDT Trying to get the cheapest pc that will run rocket league at 1440p and 144hz. Is this a good build? Costs $700 for the prebuilt. AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core 12-Thread 3.6GHz (4.2 GHz Max Boost) CPU 500GB SSD – Up to 30x faster than traditional HDD B450 Motherboard NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 4GB GDDR5 Graphics Card (Brand may vary) 8GB DDR4 3000MHz Gaming Memory with Heat Spreaders Windows 10 Home 64-bit 802.11AC Wi-Fi No Bloatware 3 x DisplayPort 1.4, 1 x HDMI HD Audio and Mic Free Gaming Keyboard and Mouse 2 x USB 3.0, 2 x USB 2.0, 4 x USB 3.2 Gen1 3 x RGB RING Fans for Maximum Air Flow Powered by 80 Plus Certified 500 Watt Power Supply l [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Found a Zotac GeForce RTX 3060Ti Twin Edge LHR, new for £499.99 ($689.74) Posted: 13 Aug 2021 03:39 AM PDT As the title, I know Zotac isn't the best, but i need an upgrade from my 1060 desperately. Worth? (UK and Ireland only i'm afraid) Edit.... Decided to buy, Link for anyone else interested, Overclockers 9 left in stock. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| New PC won't boot -- CPU Led ? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 02:10 PM PDT Hi, It's me again ://. I finally built my PC and everything. Tried to boot It but nothing happened besides this : https://m.imgur.com/a/tF2XIkY (Pic+video) The problem Is the CPU led I think. What can I do? [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Dark rock 4 pro or arctic Liquid freezer ii 360 Posted: 13 Aug 2021 01:41 PM PDT I am building my first pc with a ryzen 7 5800x and 3070 ti and I was wondering If I should buy a arctic liquid freezer ii 360 or be quiet dark rock 4 pro. The difference in price is around 5 $. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Transferring 8.1 OEM key to new build by installing old build's SSD? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 01:34 PM PDT So if I'm building a new PC with a new NVMe drive, could I plug in my old PC's SSD which has windows 10 installed, boot up windows through that SSD and then transfer the OS to the new NVMe SSD? I still have the OEM key and I read a comment somewhere that this worked for them. Just wanna hear other people's thoughts. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Bought a pre-built, maybe my biggest mistake yet? Posted: 12 Aug 2021 08:55 PM PDT So I had bought a Acer Nitro N50 (without disc drive) believe it's 2019-2020. I have a GTX 1650 (not super) comes with DVI port and HDMI port only. Here is where the problems comes in, I was gifted 2 curved MSI monitors that have FreeSync on them. I want enable G-Sync but I can't even turn on FreeSync on my monitor and I don't see the option for G-Sync in the control panel for NVIDEA. Even after all the shit I tried I have come to Reddit. Can anyone please help me figure this out or even point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. You guys are whole bunch of amazing people who can give me insight on this pre built I own now so I don't make the same mistake when I build my own. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2021 10:44 AM PDT | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Do GPU manufacturers still sell old cards? Posted: 13 Aug 2021 08:04 AM PDT I'm looking to buy a gtx 970/980/980 ti in the UK. I can't seem to find many brand new cards. Is this because the card is old? I'm just wondering because the card is still very capable and if they were in store I'm sure some people would buy them [link] [comments] |
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