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    Build a PC: Simple Questions - January 09, 2021

    January 09, 2021

    Build a PC: Simple Questions - January 09, 2021

    Simple Questions - January 09, 2021

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 04:00 AM PST

    This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions:

    • Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard?
    • I'm thinking of getting a ≤$300 graphics card. Which one should I get?
    • I'm on a very tight budget and I'm looking for a case ≤$50

    Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat

    Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged.

    Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for /r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail!

    Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section.

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    My first PC Build is complete!

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 08:27 AM PST

    https://imgur.com/a/i4w21mz

    When I was around 13-14, I didn't trust myself to build my own computer, so I bought a stupid overpriced pre-built. Note that this was only a few years ago, and the pre-built came with an AMD FX 8350. Clearly, I did not do my research. Not long ago I decided, screw this, I want to actually play games well instead of just playing them okay.

    New Specs:

    CPU: Ryzen 5 3600

    GPU: GTX 1060 3GB (This was from my old prebuilt -- I can't really afford any new GPU right now, especially not a great one)

    Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4-3200

    Mobo: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max

    PSU: EVGA BR 600W 80+ Bronze

    Case: Fractal Meshify C

    submitted by /u/BlevinsGuy
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    1050ti to 3060ti

    Posted: 08 Jan 2021 04:01 PM PST

    how big will this difference actually be

    submitted by /u/joseph_krakcowski
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    Completed my RTX 3070 / Ryzen 5 3600X build and I'm in love

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 03:40 AM PST

    Finished building this beauty last night. I always thought my old pc was still alright considering age, now I cannot believe how fast this new machine is, and 144hz makes everything feel so good, I'm noticing effects on websites I never knew were there before.

    Here's the photo anyway:

    https://i.imgur.com/UrV93ny.jpg

    Edit: Cpu is a 5600x, damn typos.

    submitted by /u/BloodyTurnip
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    Finished my Vemom themed build! Big thanks to the people in this sub who helped me out.

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 11:25 AM PST

    https://imgur.com/a/q4vBiQa

    Specs

    X570 tomahawk

    5800x ryzen

    3080 asus tuf OC

    3600 32gb corsair ram

    Arctic liquid freezer 360

    Phantek P500A case

    Corsair 850w psu

    Samsung 2 TB M.2 nvme drive

    Samsung 1 TB SSD evo

    submitted by /u/Kvtfhse
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    Not many 970 VS 3070 comparisons out there, so I did one.

    Posted: 08 Jan 2021 07:24 PM PST

    My trusty 970 was long in the tooth, and I was fortunate to snag a 3070 from Best Buy this past week. I'd looked and looked and looked and couldn't find anyone doing comparisons of these cards so I didn't really know quite how much of an upgrade I was gonna get. What I did find was lots of people saying they were going to upgrade from a 970 to a 3070, so for those people out there who might care to know: It's a pretty huge upgrade.

    Here's a couple pics, one of my build and one a screenshot of two 3DMark Time Spy scores, 970 vs 3070. For those who don't wanna click the link: 3,810 with the 970, and 11,732 with the 3070. Literally over 3x gain in this benchmark. I could only be happier if I'd snagged the 3080 I really wanted, but I'm not even going to begin to complain right now, I'm so fortunate.

    To those still searching for a card, I wish you the best of luck!

    submitted by /u/atomiku121
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    which gpu would Ryzen 3400G compare to ?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 06:20 AM PST

    Im trying to find if it is better to get it or to get a separated cpu and gpu that would deliver a slightly better perfomance for equal price. I know RAM really matters at this subject so assuming i would dual channel 8gb 3200mhz, what would be a similar gpu that vega 11 would compare to ?

    important: im at brazil so ryzen 3400g costs like 220 dollars here in my currency, so something near this, up to 250 dollars

    submitted by /u/pinlias
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    A Beginner's Guide to RGB in 2021

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 02:29 PM PST

    It's been years since my last totally new build, and wanted to share what I learned about making my new PC into a spectacular neon rainbow over the last month. My kids thought my old computer was "so boring" compared to my sister's so I knew I had to bring my A+ game with rainbow explosion RGB :)

    I'll start out by saying that figuring all this out has been by far the most confusing and frustrating part of my new build. Every time I thought I understood everything, there was always yet another exception to the rule. TLDR is at the bottom.

    ​

    The difference between RGB vs ARGB

    The first and most crucial piece of information is that there are two types of "RGB" for PCs:

    • RGB = 4-pin 12V header = Every LED on the device must be the same color
    • ARGB = Addressable RGB = 3-pin 5V header = You can control the color of each individual LED on the device

    ARGB (also sometimes known as digital RGB) is far more flexible, can create way cooler effects, and it's what most modern LED devices use. It's also a newer technology, so a lot of older "How to do RGB" posts/articles just assume you're using the 12V kind. Also you should never plug an ARGB 5V device into a RGB 12V header. Each type of device should be kept to its own type. Some photos comparing ARGB vs RGB headers can be found here.

    What makes it very confusing is a lot of product listings and articles (like my post title!) just say "RGB" without specifying which type they're referring to until you dig deeper into the specs.

    ​

    The different ARGB connector types

    Adding to this cluster-mess is that most 5V 3-pin ARGB devices use a 4-pin footprint which have one of the pins left off so there's only 3 physical metal pins. But because nothing can be easy, there are also some ARGB devices that use a 3-pin footprint instead (JST-SM 3 pin). This image shows the two different ARGB connector types.

    Because of this, some ARGB devices include a cable compatible with both types of ARGB headers. But other ARGB devices only provide one option and you'd need an adapter if it's the wrong type of your setup. This very important detail isn't always listed in the product description either because it'll just say "3-pin Addressable RGB" without specifying which types of headers are supported, making it extremely frustrating and confusing. In an attempt to keep it clear in this document I'll use the following abbreviations which I've made up just now (if there arebetter ones, let me know and I'll update):

    3P3F - 3-pin Addressable RGB header with a 3-pin JST-SM footprint. Sometimes also called a DGV connector (Data, Ground, Voltage)

    3P4F - 3 pin Addressable RGB header with a 4-pin footprint (3 physical metal pins as one pin is left off) - used by most ARGB devices and motherboards

    ​

    ​

    How do I control all the lights in my PC so I can make a cool Cyberpunk 2077 theme?

    Modern motherboards usually include both 5V ARGB and 12V RGB headers which can be used to control your lights via their respective motherboard utility software (MSI Dragon Center Mystic Light/ASUS Aura Sync/etc). These motherboard headers can be named a variety of things depending on the manufacturer. On my MSI board the 5V ARGB header is called JRAINBOW while the 12V RGB header is called JRGB.

    For ARGB, most motherboards (Asus/MSI/ASRock) use the 3P4F header for ARGB, but other motherboards (Gigabyte) use the 3P3F header for ARGB. Yes, it's a confusing mess.

    Older motherboards might just have a 12V 4-pin RGB header or even more depressing, no RGB header at all! We'll cover that case a bit further down.

    And to add insult to injury, some manufacturers created proprietary headers/protocols (like some 5-pin fans) that plug into their own proprietary light controllers which are then controlled via USB.

    ​

    ​

    How do RGB fans work?

    The fans typically come with two cables connected to them: one for controlling the fan speed (like any other fan) and the other for controlling the LEDs. However some fans have a 3P4F header while other fans have a 3P3F header, and some fans provide both types of connectors. Also remember that double the cables, double the cable management!

    There's also some fan "kits" that come with an ARGB hub that all the fans ARGB cables plug into and then you can control the LEDs with a wired remote. This is more common if you buy a 2, 3, or 4 pack of ARGB fans together as one package.

    ​

    ​

    ​

    I have 20 ARGB fans for my case and only 1 ARGB header, what do I do?

    Most motherboards only come with one or two ARGB headers. You have a few options

    1. Use a simple splitter - Straight forward and cheap. You connect it to your motherboard's ARGB header. However whatever color/pattern is used on the longest device will be the color/pattern used for all the other devices connected to the splitter. So if you set a 12-LED pattern (like a rainbow) with three devices connected to the splitter - a 12 LED strip shows all 12, a 6 LED fan shows the first 6 of the pattern, and a 3 LED fan shows just the first 3 of the pattern. So all devices connected to the splitter will be mirrored. This may or may not matter to you based on how you want to light your system. Also each ARGB device has an amount of max current it could use, so you want to make sure the sum of all those devices hanging off the splitter is less than what your motherboard supports (usually around 3A).
    2. Some devices allow you to daisy-chain them together so you only need one motherboard header to connect multiple LED strips/fans (think of how your Christmas lights chain together). You'd have to determine if your particular device can do this as some devices have a connector to support this and some don't. It has the same limitations as using a splitter though.
    3. Use a hub - Typically an ARGB hub works just like a splitter and is connected to your motherboard's ARGB header, but also includes a connection for power (usually provided by a SATA power connector from your PSU), so you can power more LEDs/devices than a splitter. But it still has the same mirror coloring limitation, which may or may not be important to you. Some fan kits (especially if you buy a 2 or 3 pack) come with a hub included.
    4. Use an ARGB controller - The most flexible option because each device you connect to the controller can have unique colors/patterns and won't have to be mirrored. It's typically controlled via an internal USB header on your motherboard and does not use the ARGB header on the motherboard at all. It also allows you to control the lights without having to use the motherboard software. I went this route and *highly\* recommend it.

    Keep in mind that there are also power limitations to consider. Some LED devices have their own SATA power connector to get around this limitation, while others just use the ARGB header 5V power which will then have a limit on how many fans/strips you can daisy chain or split off. That particular limit will be motherboard dependent and also dependent on the power draw of the LED device(s), which should be listed somewhere in the motherboard specs. But the end result is that you can't actually control 20 ARGB devices off a single ARGB header because the LEDs would get way too dim.

    ​

    ​

    I don't have a RGB or ARGB header on my motherboard, how can I turn my PC into a rainbow explosion?

    There's two options:

    1. Make sure the LED device you're interested in comes with its own remote. The drawback for a physical remote is that it might be complicated to get that remote outside your case if it's a wired remote (and most are wired remotes), so anytime you want to change the colors/patterns you would need to pop open your case. This may or may not be a big deal for you.
    2. Buy a hardware kit to control the LEDs like the Razer Addressable RGB controller I mentioned above which uses an internal USB connector that almost all motherboards have.

    Now notes on my experiences with different devices:

    • Razer Addressable RGB Controller: By far the best purchase I made in my technicolor rainbow journey, this lets you connect 6 different ARGB devices and give them each unique colors/patterns. It works with ARGB devices that use the 3P4F header (3 physical pins in the 4-pin footprint). You use Razer's Synapse3 software to design the lighting schemes. This software does have a bit of a learning curve, but is quite powerful as you can layer different effects. I'm a huge fan of this controller and since it's only a few months old I don't see it mentioned much, but I consider it a must-have for anyone who wants to seriously light up their PC. You can split/daisy chain on each of the ports too, for a maximum of 80 LEDs per port, or 240 LEDs in total. The fans I bought have 12 LEDs each so there's quite a lot of headroom for daisy changing. It's compatible with just about any ARGB device that uses the standard WS2812b LEDs that almost all ARGB devices use. It connects to the internal USB header on your motherboard so it's also compatible with just about every PC. You could also use a standard micro-B USB cable and connect it to an external USB port, so you could use it with desktop 5V ARGB light strips too. It also comes with tape to stick it to your PC or alternatively it has screw holes compatible with SSD mounting in your case (which is what I did). The one odd thing with this is it uses an old-school Molex connector for its power source instead of the "standard" SATA power connector which is a bit annoying to attach another cable to the PSU. There are Molex to SATA adapters available, but I didn't try it so perhaps someone wants to be a guinea pig let us know how it goes.

    ​

    • G.Skill Neo Z RGB RAM: You control the RAM RGB using the RAM manufacturer's software running on your PC. The G.Skill software is fairly configurable, I had no issues and I really like these RAM sticks in particular because they diffuse the light really smoothly.

    ​

    • Asus 3080 Video card: You use the video card manufacturer software to control the LEDs on your video card. So DragonCenter for MSI cards, Aura Sync for Asus cards, etc. The Asus 3080 I managed to snag just has a small logo LED so I turned it off because I already had so many LEDs going on in my system.

    ​

    • Lian Li Strimer Plus Power Cables: I blew $100 on these but they were so worth it! These are extensions, so they'll work with any power supply. The 24-pin Motherboard one comes with a controller, and you plug in both the motherboard and GPU extensions in that controller. You can use the controller as a physical remote, or alternatively you can connect the controller to a 3P4F ARGB header on your motherboard. You long press on the "mode" button to switch between the options.Make sure you get the "Plus" version which is newer and looks much better than the original version. It uses a SATA power connector and can get *super* bright. The normal GPU extension has a 6+2 and 6+2 connection, and there's now also a new 8+8+8 GPU extension available for the RTX 3080/3090 cards that require it. The GPU extension comes with the option to drive it off a 3P4F ARGB header, so you don't have to buy the 24-pin extension in order to get the controller if you don't want to. But I'd highly recommend getting both. These are my favorite RGB devices in my build.One note, these Strimer Plus light strips have too many LEDs for the Razer ARGB controller, so if you try connecting it to the Razer controller, you'll get an error and it'll refuse to recognize it. I have them connected to my motherboard ARGB header directly.

    ​

    • DeepCool Castle EX 240mm AIO: IMHO these are one of the best looking AIOs out there because you can remove the logo entirely or replace it with your own custom one. Includes a connection for both the 3P3F and 3P4F ARGB footprints so that's a huge bonus too. Default fans were a bit loud though at 100% and replaced them with ARGB ones that are quieter.

    ​

    • DeepCool CF120 fans: Nice and cool 12 LED ARGB PWM fans. The stand-alone CF120 come with adapters so it works with both the 3P3F and 3P4F ARGB headers. Sadly the CF140 wasn't available standalone, so I had to buy a 2-fan kit. The kit includes both a fan controller/splitter and an ARGB hub/splitter. Unfortunately the ARGB hub that came in the kit only includes one ARGB header adapter and I don't' see anywhere that sells the adapter by itself. So both fans would have to be the same color/pattern, unless you buy another CF120 just to get an adapter. Which I did. RGB is a slippery slope!

    ​

    • Be Quiet 500DX case: Has the standard 3P4F ARGB connection and hooked it up to the Razer controller and works and looks great. There's a button on the front to control the LEDs by cycling through the options on each press if you don't have a ARGB header. You hold down the button for 3 seconds to toggle between using the button or using the ARGB controller to controller the LEDs. Also the front panel strip and the interior top strip are mirrored, so you can't make them unique colors from each other. It uses a SATA connector for power. Case is great too!

    ​

    • Razer BlackWidow Keyboard: Standard RGB mechanical keyboard, RGB is controlled via Razer's Synapse3. You can do some cool effects triggered by specific keys you specify. It's really nice to have both this keyboard and my ARGB controller controlled by the same software. The only disappointment is the lighting scheme isn't saved to the keyboard memory, so if you use Linux or plug it anywhere else, it just defaults to a rainbow color.

    ​

    • Phantek Digital Halos: I originally was going to go with these because they allow you to add LEDs to *any* case fan and can be cheaper than buying a ARGB fan if you already have boring non light up fans. So you can light up your Noctua NF-A12x25's if you wanted and they look really good.

    There are 2 different main lines:

    • Halos RGB - 12V RGB with 18 LEDs (120mm) or 21 LEDs (140mm)
    • Halos Digital - 5V ARGB with 30 LEDs for both sizes. Looks much better than the RGB version.

    And then each line has two different versions:

    • Normal (non-Lux): Plastic frame, plain cable
    • Lux: Aluminium frame, braided cable, and crucially, includes a 3P4F ARGB adapter.

    I originally bought these not realizing that the normal non-Lux version only has a connection for a 3P3F header, which is not compatible with my motherboard or the Razer controller. You can buy the adapter separately for $5 a pop, so I bought that, but all 4 adapters were *super* loose on the ARGB header and would fall out of both the Razer controller and motherboard headers. I really wanted to like these, but I had to return them because it just didn't work well at all. I was also super annoyed I had to buy an adapter and wait a week to ship because Phantek's product description doesn't make it clear at all that it's not compatible with the standard 3P4F ARGB header.

    ​

    ​

    Some last notes:

    • Razer's Synapse3 software theoretically has hooks to also control the RGB RAM and the MSI Mystic Light from inside the Synapse3 studio, but I found it to be very buggy and didn't work well. Also while my RGB RAM has 8 LEDs, I could only control 4 of them with Synapse3. So that level of integration doesn't seem quite there yet. In the end I had to use 4 different Windows programs to control all the various devices (Synapse3, MSI DragonCenter, GSkill, and Asus Aura for the video card)
    • There's a subreddit dedicated to custom Razer profiles that you can download and use.
    • I did not explore any of the Crucial RGB fans/controllers because they're so expensive. I believe they use a proprietary connection though. I'm sure someone in the comments can provide more information on that ecosystem.
    • RGB=Red, Green, Blue. Each color is made up of 8 bits to give 256 (2^8) possible values for each color, and then all combined give the 256x256x256=16.7 million possible unique colors you see in marketing all the time.
    • For anyone looking for the technical details, 12V RGB devices work by dedicating a line for Red, one for Green, and one for Blue and adjusting the voltages to adjust the colors. ARGB is more complex and details can be found here.

    ​

    Anyways, this is everything I wish I'd known when I started this whole process, so hopefully it can help someone else out too. I've always thought being a concert lighting engineer would be a fun job and this is the closest I'll probably ever get. So while RGB isn't for everyone, and like Crossfitters and vegans, you don't have to ask someone if they don't like RGB, they'll make sure to tell you, I'm extremely happy I went all out on the RGB!

    ​

    TLDR: Buy 5V Addressable RGB (ARGB) devices that use the standard ARGB header and get a Razer Addressable RGB Controller which connects to your motherboard's internal USB header. Now you've got something that'll work with almost any PC and almost all ARGB devices.

    submitted by /u/FakeSquare
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    3 High pitch buzzes when starting up PC?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:32 AM PST

    Just attempted to install new RAM on my motherboard, but when i start up my PC now I hear 3 high pitch buzzes and can't see anything on my monitors. How do i fix this? (RAM is 2x8GB 3200mhz)

    submitted by /u/cianparker
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    Does anyone knows if the Nvidia geforce gt 3070 rtx is compatible with the hp 8437 motherboard

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 12:04 PM PST

    Does anyone knows if the Nvidia geforce gt 3070 rtx is compatible with the hp 8437 motherboard , please I do not know much about hardware.

    submitted by /u/nosainwe
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    I’m replacing a GeForce 960. (I know). My budget is $500. What should I get that is currently available?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:05 AM PST

    I have 2 4gb sticks of ram and thinking of getting a third.

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:05 AM PST

    I have 1 4gb stick in slot 1 and another one in slot 3. Atleast thats what CPU-Z says. Can i get another one and put it in slot 2 for example. It says the channel # is duel if that helps with anything.

    submitted by /u/TheOfficalEverzo
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    Upgraded my PC with a 5600x and also took the time to clean and cable manage.

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 10:19 AM PST

    I invested in AMD stock at the beginning of the pandemic. It's been great since then. So I sold some of my AMD shares to buy a new AMD CPU. we jumped from a 2600x all the way to a 5600x.

    Album of the upgrade.

    Parts list. All prices are what I originally payed for the part when I bought it.

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor $300.00
    CPU Cooler Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler $45.00
    Motherboard ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $80.00
    Memory V-Color SKYWALKER 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory $67.00
    Storage Crucial MX500 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $70.00
    Storage Inland 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $50.00
    Storage Silicon Power A80 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $68.00
    Storage Hitachi Travelstar 5K1000 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Purchased For $0.00
    Video Card Zotac GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING Video Card $340.00
    Case Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case $40.00
    Power Supply Corsair Vengeance 650 W 80+ Silver Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $60.00
    Case Fan Noctua P12 redux-1700 PWM 70.75 CFM 120 mm Fan $16.00
    Case Fan Corsair AF120 (2018) 52 CFM 120 mm Fan $15.00
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $1151.00
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-01-09 13:19 EST-0500
    submitted by /u/Brewmentationator
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    I went on ebay to look at 3080s. Theres no way people are paying 1,400 for a 3080. Right?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 10:35 AM PST

    EZ Debugg LED on MSI B550-A Pro

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 12:54 PM PST

    I just bought my PC components and started assembling them with a friend of mine. Once everything was assembled properly, I tried starting the system, but sadly only the CPU LED of the EZ Debugg LED's started glowing white. So we tried taking of all components, except the CPU and tried it again, same problem. With only the 24 pin power supply for the motherboard and the 8 pin for the CPU connected, we still got the same error. We flashed the newest beta BIOS and the newest stable BIOS, with no improvements. Some forum posts suggested we use a different USB stick for the BIOS flashing, but that also did not help. Other posts suggested starting the system with a RAM stick in the B2 slot, but that also did nothing. If anyone has some ideas, I would love to hear them, because I have no clue what to do now.

    Specs:
    -MSI B550-A Pro, ATX, So.AM4
    -AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 8x 3.80GHz So.AM4
    -Gtx 1060 6gb
    -250 GB WD Black SN750 Gaming M.2 2280 NVMe
    - 32GB HyperX Fury DDR4-3200 (2*16GB)
    -CoolerMaster MWE Gold 850 - V2

    submitted by /u/Keorigin
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    Completed my first build!

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 11:50 AM PST

    https://imgur.com/a/gXNwMjD

    I first posted this in the sffpc subreddit and tried to crosspost, but alas here I am. Below is from my original post, however I'd like to add that after playing around with the fan configs and stress testing my radiator fans are now set up as pull intake (accidentally them as push intake in photos but had them in pull exhaust in actuality)

    Hi,

    So I finally did the thing and built my first PC!!

    I have been wanting to build a PC since I was in middle school, but I never got around to it. Now here I am many years later and I am absolutely happy with how it came out! Regardless of all the headaches it took to acquire the parts, as well as having to deal with a motherboard (Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX B550I) that did not want to flash its BIOS nor POST! The latter of which caused me to panic and go through every guide I can find to determine if another component was the issue, but after acquiring a new motherboard everything worked fine.

    I definitely will be looking into custom cables to cut the clutter a little bit, an anti-vandal switch, and some more Noctua fans but not an immediate need!

    Anyways here are the components used (for now):

    • NCASE M1 v6.1
    • Ryzen 5600x
    • EK D-RGB 240mm AIO
    • Asus ROG STRIX B550I
    • G.Skill 2x16gb Trident Z Neo
    • Samsung 1tb 970 Evo M.2
    • EVGA 3080 XC3 Ultra
    • Corsair SF750
    • 2x Noctua NF A12x15 Chromax
    • 2x Noctua NF A12x25
    submitted by /u/_spacelynx_
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    First PC build

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 12:35 PM PST

    Hey, i'm pretty new to PC building and gaming but i've been really wanting to build my first PC but i don't know where to start. What would be a decent build that would allow me to play games like minecraft and maybe handle streaming but won't break the bank since i'm in high school and only work a part time job?

    submitted by /u/nxymax
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    Which part should i upgrade first ?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:03 AM PST

    Hi,

    First thing first happy new year and all of that good stuff.

    I'm currently looking for pieces to upgrade on my pc which currently runs :

    • Ryzen 1600
    • Gtx 970
    • 16 gb ram
    • Gigabyte x370 aorus gaming k5

    I'm looking for some good upgrades to start streaming. I first i wanted to buy a new gpu but you know, out of stock.

    submitted by /u/Koishii_vt
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    So, reddit, do you need a tempered glass side panel to watercool?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:24 AM PST

    Not my question, a friends.

    submitted by /u/FighterPlaneBoi
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    I'm SO close please help with Win10 install!

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 11:25 AM PST

    I just built my first pc, everything seems fine bios recognizes m.2 nvme. I boot from USB and get the install windows prompt.

    BUT!!!

    When I hit enter to install it gives me a progress bar, the progress bar fills, but when it finishes I just get my MOBO screen instead of a prompt of where to install. Nothing seems to happen from that point.

    There are no debug codes on mobo, everything seems to still be running fine, I just can't seem to install windows. Please help!!

    submitted by /u/KameleonTDK
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    Can I put my Ram and SSD in my motherboard a few days before my processor goes in? Will it be bad for the computer?

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:13 AM PST

    Mix identical (but different capacity) RAM sticks

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 07:32 AM PST

    Hello,

    so I have 2x8GB Crucial memory sticks (BL2K8G36C16U4R) installed in my MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC mobo. I would like to upgrade my RAM capacity, but i cant buy the same 16GB kit anymore. I can buy basically identical kit only differece is that its 32GB (BL2K16G36C16U4R). Would that cause any issues? Or can I mix different capacity sticks just fine?

    submitted by /u/TMKis
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    ‘A media driver your computer needs is missing’

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 10:59 AM PST

    Following on from my last post my processor is now working and everything seems to be working on the inside, I've gone to install media creation tool usb and it loads windows but when you click 'install now' it comes up with an error message saying:

    'A media driver your computer needs is missing. This could be a DVD, USB or Hard Disk driver. If you have a CD, DVD or USB flash drive with the driver on it, please insert now.'

    I've been looking online for every fix I can, I've tried to hunt out chipset downloads, moving usbs from one port to another, using the command prompt, just nothing seems to be working for me. Not sure if I'm just being stupid or not but I've been trying to work this out for 3 hours.

    If anyone else has any ideas as to what I could try, please let me know, this is my first PC build so I'm not really sure what to do

    Just incase it helps at all i'll list my parts here: - EVGA 500 w1 power brick - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro (2x8gb) - Gigabyte B450m DS3H - Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500gb SSD - AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Processor - ASUS Radeon RX 8GB Strix Edition

    submitted by /u/stegly
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    Disappointing i7-9700 vs 5600X performance

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 09:32 AM PST

    TITLE IS WRONG :( i7-8700 vs 5600x

    I've "upgraded" to a 5600X based on reviews and comparisons, mainly https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-8700-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-5600X/3099vs3859

    However... I'm pretty disappointed with the results https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/17210142/spy/12347839

    Was I a bit too naive and failed to research properly before purchasing? Or do I have a bottleneck somewhere....

    Any thoughts welcome - Apart from the thought of "You have more money than sense" preferably!

    Old PC:

    • Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 PC4-28800C17 3600MHz
    • Intel Core i7-8700 3.2GHz (Coffee Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor
    • Asus ROG Maximus X Apex Intel Z370 Motherboard
    • Cryorig R1 Ultimate Dual Tower CPU Heatsink
    • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
    • Samsung 960 EVO Polaris 500GB NVME
    • Corsair Professional Series AX 860W '80 Plus Platinum' Modular Power Supply

    New PC (Second disk & case also changed by largely irrelevant I think. GPUs aren't in stock anywhere.....):

    • Kingston HyperX Predator 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 PC4-28800C17 3600MHz
    • AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Processor
    • ROG STRIX X570-E GAMING Motherboard
    • Corsair Hydro Series H100i RGB Platinum 240mm Liquid CPU Cooler
    • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
    • Samsung 980 PRO 1 TB NVME
    • Corsair Professional Series AX 860W '80 Plus Platinum' Modular Power Supply
    submitted by /u/Floffski
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    First pc build, case fans go loud after shutting down

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 05:42 AM PST

    Hello I finished my first build yesterday. It is a msi mpg b550 gaming plus motherboard inside a meshify c case and gtx 1660 super from asus tuf gaming. When I shutdown the pc last night the case fans were really loud. Is this normal? The case fans were 3 pins inserted into te motherboards 4 pins sys_fans. Also when the pc is shut down I can still see a little light on my GPU. Is this normal? Thanks.

    submitted by /u/Willy156
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    Internal HDD keeps disconnecting

    Posted: 09 Jan 2021 11:23 AM PST

    My Seagate 1TB HDD keep disconnecting..

    I've tried several different sata cables, different ports. and already set sleep settings to none in power option. What should i do now? :(

    submitted by /u/eulicix
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