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    Build a PC: Simple Questions - November 09, 2020

    Build a PC: Simple Questions - November 09, 2020


    Simple Questions - November 09, 2020

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 04:15 AM PST

    This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions:

    • Is this RAM compatible with my motherboard?
    • I'm thinking of getting a GTX 1070. Which one should I get?
    • I'm on a very tight budget and I'm looking for a case < $50

    Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat

    Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged.

    Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for /r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail!

    Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section.

    submitted by /u/AutoModerator
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    Super boring mom emailstation, with some learn-from-my-fail tips.

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 07:17 AM PST

    The goal here was to create a basic, low-power pc for email, facebook, and occasional casual games. It's overkill for that purpose, I think. But I wanted to build a Ryzen system, my past builds were all Intel.

    Look at this non-cable managed trash. It's hideous.
    https://i.imgur.com/QWkAMvW.png
    https://i.imgur.com/kpTk1bM.png

    Unfortunately, the non-modular PSU means the CPU power cable barely reaches, so no choice but to stretch across the entire board. Ditto the USB connector which has to reach the opposite end of the motherboard. I coulda tidied that one long ribbon cable better though.

    PCPartPicker Part List

    Type Item Price
    CPU AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor $136.88 @ Amazon
    Motherboard MSI PERFORMANCE GAMING X470 GAMING PLUS MAX $120.99 @ Newegg
    Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory $39.99 @ Amazon
    Storage Western Digital Blue 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $44.99 @ Amazon
    Power Supply Thermaltake Smart Series 430 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply $42.99 @ Amazon
    Case Raijintek ARCADIA II $32.99 @ Newegg
    Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
    Total $418.83
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-10-22 01:01 EDT-0400
    • note: the case was not chosen with PCPartPicker. Everything else was. These parts are pretty much all chosen with logicalincrements.com, which has worked fine for me in the past for picking cheap+compatible hardware. Not shown: mom's old mechanical hard drives, tucked away on opposide side of case in a drive cage.

    Fuckups: I'm sure a lot of this stuff is considered common knowledge but maybe it helps a fellow noob.

    • Based on the recommended install video for the m.2 SSD, I figured I just needed to remove the screw, snap in the SSD, then put the screw back. But actually there's a standoff below the SSD so that it installs basically parallel to the board when screwed down. I didn't really notice the standoff in the video (it's kind of short+wide) and ended up mounting the m.2 without one. So the m.2 looked like a ramp. I figured that had to be wrong, so I looked closer and realized my error... the standoff was in a separate bag of screws and wasn't pre-installed. I installed it and the m.2 is at a correct angle (and works, thankfully).

    • Speaking of standoffs, only the bare minimum (4) were preinstalled. I think it's helpful to add the others where you can. My motherboard has a big warning about two areas where you want to AVOID having standoffs, so if you have some little slips of paper that come with your motherboard... read those for warnings like that. I found that depending on tolerances, I needed to install a screw into the standoffs, then use a screwdriver to get them fully tightened. Sometimes the screw would really get jammed into the standoff and I could find no better solution than to bite it with my teeth, separate them, and then tighten the problematic standoff with pliers or vice grips.

    • It turns out it matters which slot you install the m.2 into. Maybe on some motherboards it doesn't but on mine, it would only work in the lower slot because it uses the SATA interface. So if BIOS can't see your m.2 SSD, this might be why.

    • Fucking IO shield. I dunno why I struggle with it. The trick is to push two corners (along a short edge) firmly at the same time until you get a snap. Then repeat on the other short edge. I HATE all the little bits of bent metal that seem designed to push the shield away from everything else. I'm not sure what their purpose is. Look at how it creates this stupid unsightly bulge. Then if you aren't careful, they get bent the wrong way and block access to USB, ethernet, etc. I ended up pulling them away with pliers, which looks awesome.

    • I think most systems want you to stagger ram (e.g. 1st and 3rd slot if you have 2 sticks). You'd think the slot numbered "1" would be the logical correct place for the first sticks of ram. In my case, no, they want 'em in 2 and 4. Consult your manual.

    • I didn't actually fuck this up, but the videos for mounting a ryzen chip say something like "align the arrow on the corner of the processor with the corresponding arrow on the socket". Which is typical. But on my motherboard you could sort of see little triangles on all 4 corners, one of them was just more prominent and indented. You can see what I mean at the bottom left of this pic. I don't know if anyone could actually rush enough to make this mistake, but I thought about it for half a second.

    • Not a fuckup necessarily, but PC Part Picker warned me that the original suggested case might need a BIOS update to make the 3200 functional. But to perform the update you'd need an older CPU installed first. I had no compatible older CPU. Rather than risk a hassle like that, I went with a slightly more expensive motherboard that guaranteed compatibility.

    • A helpful redditor suggested my original CPU choice, the 3400G, was overkill, and I could save some money downgrading to the next tier down, the 3200g. That was good advice, so I did it, but I rushed and didn't really look at the price difference. Turns out it's $99 in most places, but it's also sold out in most places. It wasn't sold out on Amazon, so I just added it to the cart, but they're charging $37 more. Oops. I guess I still technically saved like $3, but would of course rather just have the 3400g if I'm gonna pay ~140.

    • I also forgot to take their advice and confirm my ram was on the mobo's compatibility list. The PC booted fine and has been running ok for a few days, but I checked the list later and it's not listed. Hope I don't see any weirdness later.

    • When feeding power cords through the holes provided in the case, plan it out a bit. Is the cord barely gonna reach? Then you don't necessarily want it to exit the hole closest to its destination, because it might need to wrap around some other stuff to reach that hole. Instead feed it through the hole closest to the PSU, so it can then just stretch diagonally across some empty space.

    • There's debate about whether to assemble stuff onto the mobo outside the case, then drop it all in, or mount the mobo first. I like half-n-half. Get the CPU and ram in so you can plug in the PSU, and get to BIOS. If you get that far, you know you got the basics ok and then you can drop it into the case and carry on. Some items might actually be easier to attach outside the case. For example, I find the tiny jumble of connectors for power, HDD, HDD LED, etc. to be a nightmare. Ideally you can arrange them into a single 8-pin block, using a rubber band or maybe glue or something. If you're forced to handle them individually, and they're near the edge of the board, near a metal wall of the case... huge pain in the ass. BTW it helped me to draw the diagram for these little guys, because the mobo booklet's diagram was not great.

    • Before concluding you miswired the power button and yoinking all your cables, make sure you didn't forget: Plug into power strip/wall, plug into back of PSU, make sure PSU's on/off switch is on.

    • A magnetic screwdriver is so helpful, some of these screws are tiny and it sucks trying to pry them out with hamfingers between tiny capacitors. FYI you can get a magnetizer that will magnetize tools that aren't. https://www.amazon.com/Demagnetizer-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-MAG2/dp/B074RMH9VL

    That's all I can think of. Appreciate the help I've gotten over the years on this sub.

    submitted by /u/CreeDorofl
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    Imagine actually finishing picking your parts for your first build, ordering them, and opening youtube to watch something not related to pc parts for the first time in 4 weeks.

    Posted: 08 Nov 2020 03:32 PM PST

    I suck

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 12:37 PM PST

    Yup. Went to take my stock Wraith Prism off my 2700x, pulled the CPU right off and bent the pins. Then broke a few off trying to bend them back. Good as any time to upgrade right? Oh wait, 5000-series are sold out. I decided to go with a 3900x. It's cheaper than a 5600x + new motherboard. Moral of the story? Be careful when removing stock CPU cooler.

    submitted by /u/LazerSnake1454
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    Looking for a final 'approval' for my first build

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 11:21 AM PST

    So if some of you experts could take a quick look over my parts list that would be much appreciated.

    Im from Germany and I managed to grab (hopefully it will be shipped) a RTX 3070 Ventus 3x OC for EUR 615 incl. shipping.

    In terms of storage, I will solely be using this build to game, I have a laptop which I use for all other things, thus I didn't opt to get a spinning harddrive for bulk storage.

    Lastly, I'm unsure whether there is a point to wait for black friday, what has your experience been with this? Im pretty much ready to pull the trigger tonight for the order still.

    Thanks very much in advance! Hope the formatting is alright.

    [PCPartPicker Part List](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/XsgQ68)

    Type|Item|Price

    :----|:----|:----

    **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/9nm323/amd-ryzen-5-3600-36-thz-6-core-processor-100-100000031box) | €193.99 @ Mindfactory

    **CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition 57.3 CFM CPU Cooler](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/hHDJ7P/cooler-master-hyper-212-rgb-black-edition-573-cfm-cpu-cooler-rr-212s-20pc-r1) | €43.33 @ Amazon Deutschland

    **Motherboard** | [MSI B550-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/7gxbt6/msi-b550-a-pro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550-a-pro) | €106.90 @ Amazon Deutschland

    **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/p6RFf7/corsair-memory-cmk16gx4m2b3200c16) | €56.90 @ Amazon Deutschland

    **Storage** | [Crucial P2 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/KMkgXL/crucial-p2-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ct1000p2ssd8) | €91.99 @ Amazon Deutschland

    **Video Card** | [MSI GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB VENTUS 3X OC Video Card](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/2cDkcf/msi-geforce-rtx-3070-8-gb-ventus-3x-oc-video-card-rtx-3070-ventus-3x-oc) | €615.00

    **Case** | [Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/BBrmP6/fractal-design-meshify-c-white-tg-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-ca-mesh-c-wt-tgc) | €81.90 @ Amazon Deutschland

    **Power Supply** | [EVGA BR 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/2gprxr/evga-br-700w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-100-br-0700-k1) | €67.20 @ Amazon Deutschland

    | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

    | **Total** | **€1257.21**

    | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2020-11-09 20:16 CET+0100 |

    submitted by /u/Pupensause
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    GPU Prices On Steroids

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 04:38 AM PST

    What is going on with GPU prices. Especially the GeForce 20 series. Price increase for 50USD on every card model. Is it because of 3000 series launch and will the prices go down anytime soon? Hope this doesnt get lost in New. Thanks.

    submitted by /u/draganduci
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    Low FPS problems RTX 3080 MSI Ventus3X

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 09:20 AM PST

    I recently got my hands on a MSI Ventus 3X RTX 3080 and I ended up having to move all my components to a new case due to the sheer size of it. Upon moving everything over and getting everything started my motherboard's beeper (Asus Maximus VIII Impact) started to give off a sequence meaning hardware component failure. However, everything seemingly runs perfectly fine. I also have updated the driver and installed MSI Afterburner to configure the setting for my GPU. But here is where things get odd, Horizon Zero Dawn gets 70 to 100 fps consistently on the highest setting however Assassins Creed Odyssey will never break 22 fps regardless of low or higher setting and regardless of fps caps set in game. Siege had something weird go on as well where anytime I saw a player on my screen the FPS would drop to 30fps but when I looked away from any player it shot up to 90fps. I solved that by using Geforce Experience to optimize settings and restarting the game and that apparently did something. Even optimizing AC Odyssey it in GeForce Experience didn't help. I've tried every trouble shooting method I've found such as reseating the ram and the GPU but nothing seems to work and my computer shows it has all components in. Herein lies the question, Is the problem that I am running into actually a hardware problem? if so, then what? or is there an issue with the game itself? Thank you to those who are willing to read all this and help I know its long but I am at my wits end with this one.

    Processor- Intel Core i7-6700k

    Ram- 2 x 16GB Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 3200MHz32gb

    Mother board- Asus Maximus VIII Impact

    EDIT/Solution -

    So after doing literally everything that everyone suggested my computer still does the beep that signifies some form of hardware failure (everything is running perfectly fine according to the Bios) however after changing to 2 power cables, reseating my ram, doing a clean driver install, and setting up XMP, I was finally able to have AC Odyssey running at a stable 90 fps on Ultra. Thank you for all of your input, not sure what exactly did it but I am just glad it worked.

    EDIT 2- After turning the game off and going back to it, the second time around it wouldn't go higher than 20 fps again. I have no clue what this issue is anymore, it makes zero sense that one instance it can run at 90 fps and then after restarting the game 2 minutes later and its back to 20 fps.

    submitted by /u/AloeBread
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    A good CPU to pair with the rtx 3070?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 10:29 AM PST

    I am going build a new desktop mainly for gaming and streaming but also for general use and I decided on a rtx 3070. What is a cpu that gives a bit of headroom and won't "bottleneck" while playing games on the rtx 3070? What are some cpu's that are also good for other uses? Thanks

    submitted by /u/Devourerofmachines
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    does it actually matter what monitor i chose?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 12:29 PM PST

    so this is probably the most frustrated ive been with my build, actually chosing the monitor.

    I had to learn about refresh rates vs your fps and how if they don't sync up its not good.

    so i have a radeon 5500xt, and plan on staying around 1080 and maybe just high or even medium settings, as I would like to get a monitor with 144hz giving me a little wiggle room. this also means whatever monitor I chose will have to have AMD freesync. oh, also around 24 inches is my size target.

    my problem began when i learned about things like TN, IPS, and VA panel types.

    from what i get TN has best response time

    IPS has vibrant colors, too vibrant imo and blacks suck and there can be backlight bleed in poorly light rooms

    Lastly, VA panels looked like the best option. really nice contrast, good blacks, and everything else just seemed "OK"

    So i decide, ok VA panel it is. and to my horror, despite plenty of them being available at 1080 144z and freesync, the VA monitor market is almost exclusively those digusting curved screens that I can't imagine even matter at a 24inch size.

    there are plenty of those IPS's everywhere but ill come across old reddit threads saying once they experienced a VA screen the IPS was way to overpowering. (imo more vibrant color does not equal more accurate, I want to be able to see black/the picture as a whole.) there was a really great video on youtube I watched where a VA and IPS were put side by side and you could see how the colors overwhelmed eachother on IPS vs the VA where things were a bit more controlled and it was easier for my eyes to interpret the image

    I do only a little gaming, and i spend more time in programs like affinity photo, clip studio paint, and do a little editing in sony movie studio. that was another factor as, as soon as you google that you get lots of IPS loyalists that just instantly say get an IPS (but i'm not a professional).

    I've seen a couple of TN panels that look nice from acer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYHZ6R6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

    but as someone doing productivity stuff more than gaming, is that something ill regret buying? or will i not even notice it because this honestly isnt even something ive even taken into account until now. i was prepared before just to by based on price and size. (im really attracted to the stand as well on that acer.)

    But i guess what im asking is since my choices of VA monitors are limited to virtually this one:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DNTXJ6?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

    i almost feel like I shouldnt even bother with VA monitors because it seems like theyre this weird middle ground that isnt getting the attention it deserves. I dont want to destroy my eyes with colors so bright the monitor cant even render black with IPS. but i'm also worried about whites appearing yellow with the TN monitors. thats a HUGE deal breaker for a build with content creation in mind.

    Are all of these things still problems or is the tech catching up to eachother? im getting most of my material from 2-5 year old discussions, and the only thing i learned i think was that this whole monitor market is a total mystery. from what i understand you can even get a TN with really nice color acurracy.

    sorry about that, any help would be appreciated even if im just told to pick one and see what happens.

    submitted by /u/Otokonokotron
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    HDD vs SSD

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 01:03 PM PST

    Is it worth it to buy a HDD in 2020, or should I save for another SSD? I already have 1TB of NVME storage but that filled up so quickly with how large modern AAA titles are. I like to have a lot of options available as I play a lot of games so I would like to expand my storage. HDDs are tempting because of the price-per-gigabyte but is it worth it given the steady decline in price for SSDs?

    submitted by /u/iswimshark
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    Cas Latency Vs Ram Speed for Ryzen 5 5600x build

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 11:56 AM PST

    Hi Guys,

    I am currently building a new PC with the new Ryzen processors,

    The specs are:

    • GPU: Zotac Gaming Trinity OC RTX 3080 10 GB
    • CPU: R5 5600x
    • MOBO: Asus Rog Strix B550-F
    • PSU: Coolermaster MWE 750W Gold+ Full Modular
    • SSD: Gigabyte AORUS SSD M.2 PCIE NVMe 1.0TB Gen4

    I am currently looking for a ram to fully utilize the capabilities of the new ryzen processor, and i have some options:

    1. DDR 4 16G (8GX2) 4000Mhz CL18 1.35V Night Hawk RGB Team @ 125$
    2. Corsair DDR 4 16G (8Gx2) 3466 CL16 Vengeance RGB PRO @ 118$

    What do you guys recommend? Is 4000Mhz stable for my mobo? Should i take less cas latency, or higher frequency?

    Cheers!

    submitted by /u/Neeez
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    Is there a difference between a DDR3 and DDR4 ram if they're both at the same speed?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 06:54 AM PST

    If I have 2 DDR3 sticks and 2 DDR4 sticks with the same speed, does it matter which one I use? (Assuming the rest of the parts are compatible with both)

    submitted by /u/EdenB1
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    Did I kill my GPU?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 03:20 AM PST

    So I was building a brand new PC. I got all the parts for it, except I couldn't afford a GPU yet, so I took a 1070 out of my old computer. My old computer is dusty as hell, so I thought to vacuum clean the GPU with a brush. I don't know what I was thinking. I probably wasn't thinking at all to be honest. The point is, after finishing the build, I get no signal. I of course tried reseating the ram, replugging the power cables, changing the PCIE port but to no avail. Could I have killed my GPU with my vacuum cleaning?

    submitted by /u/Doridot
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    How do I move my Windows 10 to another drive?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 01:10 PM PST

    I currently have my Windows 10 installed on a 240 GB SSD. I just got a 500 GB SSD that is faster, I want to move Windows 10 to the new, faster SSD.

    Is there any way I can move Windows 10 to the new SSD without having everything deleted? I just want to move it to the new SSD without having to reinstall things, I want my computer to work normally with just my Windows being in the new SSD.

    Is there any way I can do this for free? I understand you can migrate OS with software, but they all cost money.

    submitted by /u/chris200205
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    What order to buy components for new AMD build...

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 12:47 PM PST

    Basically want to maximize my money over the next several months while I buy the parts one or two at a time...

    Based on availability, price reductions, etc.. I am curious if one was to look to build a new AMD system over the next say 4 months or so.. to spread out the money... e.g. don't have all the money right now to buy everything...

    I am thinking.. CPU asap.. because the price of that likely won't go down for several months or longer and they are going to be hard to get (in my case a 5950x).

    Then, NVMe SSD (2TB main) and 64GB (2x32 or 4x16.. not sure yet) RAM.. which would mean also buying the motherboard around same time to know how many sticks to get (e.g. DTX/ITX or ATX with 4 slots.. and whether it handles 32GB modules or only 16.. I think all AM4 support 32GB though).

    Case, p/s, fans can more or less be bought whenever.. they aren't too expensive and they go on sale at various times, so likely whenever they are on sale grab them.

    M/B as I said with RAM most likely.. but if I only get 2x32GB sticks, I can wait on the m/b in case it goes on sale.. or.. what I am hoping for is a January or so release of a new x570 that has USB3.2 2x2 (20gbps) option.. doubtful that will happen though. I am also hoping for more DTX/MATX options, as I want a smaller case size.

    GPU I think is last.. I have a Radeon VII right now, which I can get by with for now until I can get/afford the 6900... which waiting on the performance of 6900 vs 3090 for video editing.. as I do some gaming, but also do video editing and want the best of both worlds. If I wait a few months or longer, the 3090 may drop in price a little bit.. and/or a newer version may come out (doubtful).

    2nd NVME SSD.. ideally would like to run 2 2TB SSDs in the case. First would be OS/apps. 2nd would be games.

    I have a 4TV RAID0 external setup over USB 3.1 Gen 2 (10gbps) which for video editing use is fast enough for 4K work, even 8K potentially, so I am not terribly worried about using internal SSDs for video editing project files and assets.

    Thoughts?

    submitted by /u/pcbuildernz
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    Challenge: Any hope for upgrading this 6 year old machine?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 01:36 PM PST

    After a few years of console gaming, I feel like getting back into the PC world. I have a machine that I built in 2013 or 14 that still runs a lot of games well enough for me, but I'd like a little bit of an upgrade. Here are the specs:

    CPU: AMD FX-6300

    GPU: XFX Radeon R9 280

    RAM: HyperX 8GB

    HDD: 2 1TB Hard Drives

    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3

    PSU: EVGA 600B 80Plus Bronze 600W

    Is there anything I can upgrade here that would be more economical than just building a whole new machine? Thank you for your help!

    submitted by /u/987456321987456321
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    RTX 3070 8 Pin wont fit

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 10:25 AM PST

    Hey,

    I just received my 3070 totay but couldnt manage to plugin the 8 pin and 6 pin energy supply. The card i Was using before was a gtx980 ti. Did anything change between these two generations concerning 6/8 pins? Right now i think that my card is a defect.... :( Thx for any tip.

    8pin: https://ibb.co/fqzTNjX Gpu: https://ibb.co/1mLHK4K

    submitted by /u/wolle271
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    Are Gaming Chairs Worth the Price?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 12:14 PM PST

    As the holidays approach I'm looking into potentially upgrading my gaming / desk chair. Are the expensive gaming chairs worth the price? I have heard mixed reviews and was curious if anyone has good recommendations based on their own experiences.

    submitted by /u/Tdubwilliams88
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    Buying a RX 6800/6800XT in UK on Launch

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 07:23 AM PST

    I have decided its time to retire my GTX 980

    I know itll be hard to get one due to obvious reasons tho I am hoping AMD has a better launch than Nvidia.

    What time will it release in the UK? What websites other than AMD will they be available on?

    submitted by /u/astrns
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    Is my new RTX 3070 dead on arrival?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 12:06 PM PST

    I just finished my new computer and the white qled appears stuck on my mobo almost every time I turn on my PC. This is accompanied by no output to my display. About 1 out of every 15 times I'm able to reach my desktop (if I'm connected via HDMI, DP never reaches the desktop), however everything seems quite sluggish, and there appears to be what seems like screen tearing while navigating the desktop and bios. If I switch out the 3070 for a GT 710 (literally the cheapest card I could find on Amazon), everything is smooth and runs normally. Could the problem conceivably be anything other than the graphics card? I'm currently reaching out to a local pc repair shop to see if it runs in one of their computers.

    Here are my specs:

    - ASUS DUAL OC RTX 3070- Ryzen 7 3800x- ASUS B550-1 Gaming mobo- G.Skill 32GB 2x16GB DDR4 3600MHz- NZXT H1 case w/ 650w PSU- 970 EVO Plus 2 TB NVMe M.2

    What I've tried:

    - Tried both ram sticks individually and in each slot.- updated bios / cleared CMOS- reseated everything- made sure all the cables are plugged in correctly- tried running the computer with everything outside of the case

    One other thing of note: for some reason the CPU fan kicks to 100% soon after turning on. The fan controls in the bios do nothing. The "Undo" and "Apply" options under "Qfan Control" in the bios are grayed out. The CPU remains at 100% until it reached the desktop and AI Suite 3 brings it under control.

    Thank you for any suggestions!

    EDIT: SOLVED! I just needed to switch to pci 3 :)

    submitted by /u/pimblynimblebottom
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    RX 5700 XT

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 01:13 PM PST

    Hey guys so I'm trying to build a pc suitable for 1080p-1440p gaming but I'm having a hard time picking a GPU.

    I was planning on getting an Asus Dual 2070s which was on sale but it sold out and the next cheapest 2070s is 500 bucks more expensive so I decided to go with a 2060s but after doing more research I realised the 5700 XT performs better at the same price of the 2060s but it has a history of driver issues.

    So basically I was wondering if it's finally safe to go with a 5700 XT or do driver issues still plague the card?

    And before I get bombarded with the "why not wait for the 6800 XT or 3070", well it's simply because those cards cost 1000 bucks more in the country I live in

    Any help is appreciated, thank you!

    submitted by /u/itssaefs
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    CPU Ryzen 5 5600X - What GPU do you recommend?

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 07:22 AM PST

    [Troubleshooting] Upgraded a 1600 to 3700x which now comes with frequent blue screens. Bluescreenview says it’s amdppm.sys or ntokrnl.exe

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 09:28 AM PST

    System build

    3700x formerly a 1600

    Ax370 gaming K5

    2x8 3200mhz ram running at 2133

    WiFi card

    Red dragon Vega 56

    2 monitors one with free sync

    750w 2 year old powersupply

    960 evo m.2

    It's not really consistent when it blue screens. Sometimes it's immediate on boot other times it late. And it doesn't require me to be doing anything it has blue screened after leaving it on desktop for 30 mins - 1hr.

    I completely reinstalled windows and it continues to happen. I also updated to bios F50d

    submitted by /u/thunder445
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    Ryzen 5600x doesn't boot at 4k

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 08:31 AM PST

    I just got my Ryzen 5600x this past weekend to replace my 3700x in my gaming machine and I'm having some problems booting on a 4k device. When I which to my 1080p monitor, it boots just fine, and I can then swap to my 4k TV and everything works great. If I reboot, I have the same problem. Everything was working great with the 3700x.... only changes that were made was the BIOS update and then the CPU swap. Any ideas?

    -Asus ROG STRIX B550-I GAMING (BIOS 1202)
    -EVGA RTX 3080

    submitted by /u/KnowledgeSpecialist4
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    I want to upgrade my laptop by adding ram

    Posted: 09 Nov 2020 10:06 AM PST

    I have 4gb ram already, if i put a 8gb ram, will it be dual channel ram?

    submitted by /u/N00bio
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