Build a PC: My first build in 8.5 years! And an ode to this subreddit. |
- My first build in 8.5 years! And an ode to this subreddit.
- Corsair Power Supply Differences (RMx vs. RM)
- 3080 or 6800xt. Can’t make up my mind?!
- CPU for rtx 3070
- Looking to upgrade GPU for Gaming/Video Editing/Streaming
- An Ugly Story for an Ugly PC
- I’ve got a budget and no idea what to put in my tower...
- **NEW BUILD** NO HDD ACTIVITY LIGHT, NO HDMI OUTPUT/BOOT
- Corsair 4000d
- First Build & Monitor - Looking for Advice
- Any recommended monitors for a 3070?
- Moving an SSD from an Nvidia/intel system to all AMD/Radeon system
- Build Help - Upgrading parts with a lot of existing pieces
- First PC Build Feedback
- Have two users using the same pc?
- What the hack is this? Lian li o11d xl rgb controller
- Got shocked by psu power cable after unplugging.
- Does my build look solid?
- First PC for 2020
- [Longtime Console, First Time Build] Just a couple of guys building their first gaming machines..any help would be much appreciated!
- It took me almost 2 months to upgrade my PC
- Is my mobo frying my network cards, or do they just stink?
- What in the unholy amount of fuck is going on with GPU prices
| My first build in 8.5 years! And an ode to this subreddit. Posted: 29 Nov 2020 02:13 AM PST Hi /r/buildapc! I finally finished building my PC "Matilda" and I'm super excited about how she turned out. An ode to this subreddit I got a little emotional building because it really took me on a trip down memory lane. I built my first PC ever in 2012. I had a strict budget of $400 (here's a list of the parts if anyone's curious). This subreddit (yes, 8 years ago) was so kind and helped me with picking out parts! I ended up with no graphics card -- the best game I could run was Minecraft but I still had loads of fun. That PC took me through all of high school until I moved away for undergrad and now my little brother still uses it to this day. I eventually bought an SSD for it and he bought some better RAM. I'm honestly amazed at how much value this PC gave and continues to give. Fast forward 8 years and now I'm able to budget much more for building a PC. Honestly, not sure if it was the best idea because I ended up being much more conscious of aesthetics due to side-panel cases. Picking parts! I started this build with the be quiet! 500DX case -- I'm happy to report that it lives up to its name and Matilda is indeed quiet. I was also insane/lucky enough to stalk Newegg and get my hands on a 3080. I decided to build with a Ryzen 3600 because I got it on sale and the CPU supply/demand situation is pretty crazy right now. Maybe I'll go for a 5000 series when things settle down. This case is somewhat unique because it has a white interior (many white cases have a dark/black interior) and it did influence how I chose my parts. I decided on a black-into-white (panda?) theme so I tried to keep most parts in this case black so I could run white PSU extension cables as a "transition". Thoughts while building Build-wise, it went about as smooth as it could have! I was definitely rusty so if I could do it again, I would (1) peel off the sticker on the CPU cooler BEFORE installing it on the CPU and (2) plug the CPU power cables in the mobo before mounting it on the case (3) plug in the front panel I/O before installing the GPU and (4) plug in and secure all of the necessary PSU cables into the PSU before putting the PSU in the case. Cable management The case was nice to build in -- only hiccup was the amount of force required to get the front panel off but at least you can use all the force you want since there is no cable connecting the front panel to the rest of the case. I tried my best at cable management and tried to make it as clean as possible. I'm really happy with the PSU extensions. They do bulk up the cables in the back of the case but you can make it work™. I also had to snip some 24-pin combs to make the two 8-pin GPU power cables look like one 16-pin cable. Parts list
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| Corsair Power Supply Differences (RMx vs. RM) Posted: 29 Nov 2020 10:43 AM PST Could someone explain to me what the difference is between the RM850 and the RM850x? It seems the price of the RMx is higher so I'm guessing would be higher quality... Is it worth paying a premium for RMx? [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 3080 or 6800xt. Can’t make up my mind?! Posted: 29 Nov 2020 08:47 AM PST My buddy has both of them need some help which one to get! [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 02:44 AM PST I want to build a pc with the new rtx 3070. What's the cheapest CPU I can buy which will pair well with this - with no/ a reasonably low bottleneck? (is there anything below €300 ish?) I will be mainly playing r6s at 1080p and am mostly interested in actual gaming performance. I know the 3070 is great at 1440p too but I'd rather have the higher fps. Thanks, any help and advice is hugely appreciated :) [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Looking to upgrade GPU for Gaming/Video Editing/Streaming Posted: 29 Nov 2020 06:52 AM PST Hi r/buildapc, first of all thank you for helping me with the initial build - it has been a fantastic and empowering experience to have a machine that can support most of my needs. I'm currently focusing a lot more on streaming and gaming, so wanted to see what my best options are for upgrading. I'm finding about 120-130fps on low graphics settings on COD Black Ops Cold War, and would love to get that beyond 240fps (my benQ being 240hz) reliably! https://pcpartpicker.com/list/m8JcfP What would be some options for me especially for higher end? I Do NOT want to spend unneccessary money, but if it's important or will get me over 240fps, I will do it most likely. Do I need to alter anything like the PSU? Best if minimum alteration to rest of the setup! Thank you so much in advance for your help, it means a lot! EDIT: just realized i have 64gb ram and around 50% usage, and im on the lower side of usage. so more RAM need ed as well. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 28 Nov 2020 04:39 PM PST Hey everyone. I don't know to what extent "build logs/stories" are allowed here, but I just wanted to share the 5 year long story of my PC - one that I didn't build from scratch, but in the process of transforming it to what it is today, I have at least taken part in just about everything that would go in to building a PC anyways. I want to share this because, for the longest time, PC building was a hobby that I could only ever interact with through a screen. LinusTechTips, JayzTwoCents and a few others were my only way to engage with the PC world. It felt so out of reach to me, and I had basically just accepted that when it comes to PCs, I will likely just settle for pre-builts. That was until August of this year, when I got tired of looking at my PC in its sad and dusty state, and wanted to finally do something about it. We'll get to that, but first... October 2015I was 17 years old at this time with no income of my own, and the laptop that I had up to that point (an Asus K55N-DS81) suffered a slow and painful death. Shortly after I got it sometime in early 2013, I stepped on the screen like an idiot, and for the next 2.5 years it was basically a desktop, connected to an external keyboard, mouse, and monitor. In its final months, it had become so hot, and I was desperate to extend its life, so I removed the keyboard, sat a desk fan on it, and aimed it straight at the cooling fan's intake. I thought it would make a huge difference, and I guess it was a little better, but with the knowledge I have now, I'm pretty sure I might've made it worse since I believe this laptop's keyboard doubled as a heatsink, and the real culprit was likely dust and crusty thermal paste all along - that wasn't something I had the guts to try and remedy back then, though. In any case, it finally died when trying to upgrade to Windows 10. It restarted and began what I imagined to be the update process, shut down in the middle of it, and would never turn back on again. I was pretty bummed out about it - while this was no gaming laptop, it was my first entry in to playing games on PC. It could handle things like Skyrim, Minecraft, League of Legends, and Sims 3/4, which is all I really needed since everything else was played on my PS3/4 anyways. This was over the summer, and now, in October, I desperately wanted a new PC, so I had somehow convinced my parents to get me an early Christmas present. They let me choose the one that I wanted as long as it was under $500, and I ended up going for the CyberPowerPC Gamer Xtreme GXI8000, which was around $460 at the time. Even then I knew this wasn't exactly fit for high-end gaming, but it had a dedicated GPU, a case that at least looked the part, and LED fans that I thought looked cool, so I was satisfied. Here's a picture I took of the internals shortly after I had gotten it. I quickly discovered that the LED lighting is heavily exaggerated in the online images - they didn't cast anywhere near that much light in real life, but at least they put some effort in to cable management. As far as specs go, here's what we started with:
While that wasn't going to impress anyone even in 2015, it surely impressed me. Having so much RAM and being able to open so many tabs in Chrome felt liberating. The 7200RPM drive felt so fast coming from the 5400RPM drive of my laptop. The games that I played ran better than they did on the laptop. For everything I used a computer for, this one made it a faster and more enjoyable experience, so I was more than satisfied. Early 2016I've had the PC for a few months now, and this is around the time I discovered overclocking. I used Nvidia Inspector to boost my GT720's memory and core clocks by I think 200MHz, or a little bit under. League of Legends was the only game I played at the time that had an in-game FPS counter (can't remember if Steam had this yet, and if it did, I definitely didn't know how to activate it), and I remember my framerate in that game went up by around 20fps with a mix of medium and high settings @ 1080p. Its PassMark score went from the mid 700s to the mid 900s. My laptop's GPU scored in the low 600s IIRC, so I was happy with this. I also remember being really surprised at how cool the PC ran. My laptop was a fiery inferno of thermal throttling, but even after playing games for hours, I remember the air exhausting out of my PC was barely warm. Later on though, I discovered that my GT 720's overclock was perhaps a bit much. I remember seeing 80C readings after long sessions, and sometimes, it would crash and reset itself back to default speeds. Of course, I'd OC it right back, albeit bringing the MHz down each time. August 2016It was my birthday, and I was gonna try something new. At this point, I had challenged my PC with some more demanding games like DiRT 3 and Bioshock Infinite, which definitely ran and looked better than their PS3/360 equivalents, but it was pretty rough, especially with no 30fps lock at the least. I decided to buy a new graphics card and perform my first-ever upgrade. I had just over 90 bucks to spend, and, being afraid of the used market, it looked like the GT 740 was my best option. I chose EVGA's single slot version in particular because I like their card designs and it didn't require any external power, something I didn't trust my "TurboLink Switching Power Supply" with thanks to its notorious reputation. Here's an image I took just moments after installing the new card. It's so thin you can barely tell it's there. I was amazed by how simple the process was. I simply swapped the cards (giving the GT 720 to my brother for his PC), and because Nvidia drivers were already present on my system, it just worked. I remember one of the first things I did was run it through PassMark, where it scored in the 1100s. Armed with my new overclocking knowledge though, I was able to get that score up to the 1600s. This totally changed my gaming experience. I was able to play Dirt 3 at 1080p/60 with many of the settings maxed. Bioshock Infinite was also very playable at 1080p, but I'd settle for 900p for a more consistent framerate. Basically, if the game was older than the card itself, I could play it comfortably at higher settings than the PS3/360 versions. Since I had a PS4 for the more modern AAA stuff, I was fine with that. September 2016-August 2019With the new card, I tried more demanding games. Dead Island ran great at 1080p, Black Ops 2 (which I mostly only played for Zombies) did too. Later on when I would sell my PS4, I even tried Assassin's Creed: Unity. The audacity right? To my surprise, I was able to get 30fps @ 720p if I kept the settings low. Other than games, I was also big in to Visual Studio, editing things with Sony Vegas, and recording guitar in Fruity Loops, all of which this PC handled acceptably. Unfortunately, around the beginning of 2017 I believe, the red LEDs on my exhaust fan burned out, but it still worked, so I didn't think much of it. I think it would last another full year before the fan itself gave out too, at which point I removed it. I don't have any pictures of my case from this time, but dust buildup was beginning to become a problem. It was coming close to Winter (2018) at this point, so running my PC without a case exhaust didn't really seem to have a big impact on temperatures. It wasn't until the early summer of 2019 that it became a problem. Under load, my measly Pentium could barely stay under 65C, and its stock cooler whined at RPMs I had never seen it achieve before. My GT 740 wasn't faring much better either, now reaching the high 70s while gaming. I also noticed that my intake grille was pretty much completely blocked thanks to my neglect, so that intake fan wasn't doing much of anything. One of my biggest complaints about my laptop, especially near its end, was how hot it ran, and now my desktop was starting to do the same. To solve this, I did something a little drastic. September 2019It's unsightly. It's trashy, but it solved all my problems. Basically, I removed the intake fan from its compartment up front and taped it to the top of the drive cages, so it now blows air towards the GPU and helps push its hot air out of the vented PCI brackets. Next, I stole the exhaust fan out of my brother's PC (to be fair, he didn't use it anymore at this point) and installed it where my old one used to be. I then mounted the PSU fan upside down, since I felt that the bottom vents were too restrictive, and its dust filter had broken up in to lots of tiny pieces at this point. Clearly, this PSU was designed to be mounted with the fan facing down, so the interior of my PC now looks just atrocious, but boy did it make all the difference in terms of thermals. Both CPU and GPU now ran much cooler and quieter after doing these very Linus-esque modifications. The victory was short-lived, though. After over 3 years of a frankly brutal overclock, my GT 740 began giving me problems. Freezes mid-game, random black screens, driver failures, artifacting, you name it. I would try inching down my overclocks in steps, and I had to basically settle for stock speeds. Even then, I would still encounter all of the aforementioned problems, just at a much lower frequency. October 2019Not a very eventful period, other than tapping in to my PSU's 12v wires to install some horrifically bright LED strips. The motherboard area was lit up in blue, and the drive cage area in white. Look at this monster. I thought it was cool at first, but looking at my PC's guts for too long would hurt my eyes. When the PC was under load, the lights would adopt a slight flicker (a testament to the quality - or lack thereof - of this power supply, probably), but I never had any issues with it. December 2019Even after sitting at stock speeds, the issues I had with the card now became very frequent again. It was frankly unusable at this point. This card was on its deathbed, and it was going fast. It was time for another GPU upgrade. I bought myself the low profile EVGA GT 1030. I got it for a lower price than what I paid for the 740, so I was happy about that. Of course, the first thing I did was overclock it until I could get ~2500ish on PassMark. Truthfully, it didn't feel like as big of a jump as the GT 740 was from the 720 (though I could now at least run Cities: Skylines at 1080p instead of 720p), but it made up for it by running much cooler, consuming way less power, and being much more stable overall. January 2020 - July 2020During this time, my PC saw very little use. While I was pleased with the card I bought, my PC's biggest issue now was its hard drive. Being almost 5 years old now, the speed it had pleasured me with when new had vanished. It was now unbearably slow. We're talking 3 minutes from pressing the power button to getting to the login screen, and then an additional 3-5 minutes for the desktop to finish loading up. Doing something about this involved taking steps that were a little more complex than simply popping in a new graphics card, so I honestly just kind of gave up on it. In March of this year, I got a great deal on an HP laptop with a 10th gen Core i3 and NVME SSD. It's so fast and responsive that for a while, I had pretty much "retired" my desktop, only keeping it plugged in if I ever wanted to record guitar, while all my gaming needs would now be served by my consoles. That changed in August. August 2020While the laptop was great, it was not at all capable of much gaming and my desktop had five years worth of history that I wanted to keep, so I decided to take action. My PC's case at this point was just a mess. The front intake grille? Ruined. Random hardened grime in unexplained places? Yep. Dust caked all over the fans thanks to the negative pressure air flow? You already know. In addition, my front IO panel - with the exception of the microphone jack - no longer worked. The headphone jack was broken by my cat a few years ago, and as for the two USB ports? I have no idea, they randomly stopped working one day. My case's side panels also would never fully close. It wouldn't bulge from the sides, but I could never get it to slide all the way in to place anymore, and those godawful LEDs really showcased the gaps. My power and reset buttons felt gross and you had a 50-50 chances as to whether or not they would work. The HDD activity LED was a bust. So if I was going to do anything, I first needed a new case, and a small one at that. I went with the InWin CE685. I wanted something console-like in size, it's not that expensive, and it has all the front I/O i could ask for, now including USB 3.0, which my motherboard surprisingly supports. Here's the last picture of my PC in its old case, moments before I would rip everything out. Three hours and lots of fear later, everything has been transplanted in to the new case. It was frankly a horrifying experience. I was so scared I'd break something, but in the end, the most difficult part was getting the front I/O connectors plugged in to the right pins. Only thing that has changed as far as specs are concerned is the power supply. It's a 300W TFX unit, and interestingly enough, its internal PCB is so much more dense than the "500W" PSU in my old case that I'd be surprised if the old one could safely deliver 200W, let alone 500. I also had to remove the fan shroud from the GT 1030 in order to install the low profile bracket. The screws for the shroud are underneath the fan and I just couldn't be bothered putting it back on. Apart from that, it's still the same PC - I even kept the optical drive. I began brainstorming what upgrades to do next, but I would spend the next few months saving the money for them. November 2020Here we are. First thing's first, I ordered a Samsung 870 QVO SSD to replace the godawful hard drive. Rather than go with a fresh install, I wanted to keep everything, so I opted for cloning the HDD to the SSD instead. This was a painful process. I got winload errors after three separate cloning attempts, and it took me all night and the next morning to finally get it right on my fourth attempt (TLDR, EasyBCD saved my life). The difference was night and day. Pressing the power button and getting to a fully loaded desktop took less than 45 seconds. I know that's not as fast as it probably could be if I went with a fresh install, but it was worth it to keep everything. Applications and games saw an equally massive boost in responsiveness. Next, I wanted to upgrade the graphics card. The GTX 1650 was a no-brainer, it's the most powerful low profile card you can get, period. Maybe I should've waited for the GDDR6 version to come back in stock, but I was impatient and got the GDDR5 version anyways, particularly Zotac's, since reviews I've read suggest that this variant has the best cooling solution, whereas Gigabyte's and MSI's run hotter. Here's the 1650 next to the 1030 it's replacing, and here is the 1650 installed. A couple of things worth noting in that second picture. To the left of the graphics card, you'll notice a small fan. I ordered a pair of 40mm fans because I knew that by the time I was done upgrading this PC, there was going to be a lot of heat in this case, so I purchased these to help exhaust it out. They're USB fans, powered internally via a Molex-USB adapter. Secondly, I couldn't install the card at first because there were two small capacitors literally blocking it from slotting in all the way. I tried and tried for over half an hour, and, out of desperation, resorted to bending the edges of the PCI bracket backwards by 90 degrees so they would just glide right over the capacitors. It's straight-up barbaric, but it's not noticeable on the outside, and it worked, so I won't complain. When I turned on my PC after installing the card, the new card made its presence immediately known. It's...audible, even at idle. When playing games, it screams like a banshee, but I dealt with it. I worried about how effective my little 40mm fan would be, but when I reached around and felt how much hot air it was pushing out, I figured that it was worth it. After that, I had a rather tumultuous experience when upgrading the CPU. I decided to stick with this same motherboard, so LGA1150 is my only option. Not wanting to push my PSU too hard, I looked at power-efficient offerings first. I ordered a Core i5-4590T first (for just 35 bucks), but then quickly realized I could do better, so I ordered a Core i7-4765T just a day or so later. The i5 arrived just fine, but I decided to wait on the i7. It was now two or three days past its expected delivery, and I was getting impatient (kind of a common theme, really), so I decided to install the i5 anyways. While removing the CPU cooler, I had actually broke the little plastic tips that lock the cooler in to place. I was screwed. No CPU upgrade was happening tonight. I was put on pause while I waited for my low profile Silverstone cooler to arrive. It was about time for this anyways, though. Just look at how gross the stock cooler had become. Installing this new cooler meant that I'd have to remove the motherboard and install a backplate. This whole process was also terrifying. Took me a few tries to get the backplate orientation right, and once I did, I was worried about if I had put on too much or too little thermal paste, and whether or not I had aligned the heatsink properly so I don't end up screwing holes in my motherboard. Luckily, I made it through, and all was well. Here's a picture taken shortly after the i5 and new cooler install. With a better CPU (finally leaving dual core behind), GPU, and SSD, this thing already felt like a different beast. Unfortunately though, the i7 I ordered never came. I can only imagine it was stolen, so after a couple weeks of back and forth between myself, my post office, the item seller, and eBay, I finally got refunded for that after filing a police report. Also within this time, I added a 2.5" 1TB 7200RPM drive for game installs to take some load off of the SSD. While I was satisfied with the i5, after measuring my PC's power consumption under load (barely 120W), I realized that I could probably get away with a lot more. I found a good deal on a Core i7-4790S, and this time, once the tracking had showed it arrived at my post office, I went to pick it up myself that morning. I installed the 4790S as soon as I got home, and while I was first very excited by its near-10k PassMark score (nearly quadruple the Pentium it replaced), I quickly discovered that the Silverstone cooler was not enough to keep its thermals in check. Given that the 4790S is labelled as a 65W TDP processor, and the Silverstone cooler is rated for exactly that, I was surprised at this. I tried redoing things like the thermal paste and heatsink mounting, but to no avail. I discovered that the CPU is only 65W TDP at base speed (3GHz). Since it spends all of its time turbo'd up to 3.8-4GHz, it's actually more like 82-84W. Temps during an Prime95 torture test quickly exceeded 85C, topping out at around 91-92. I ordered the Noctua NH-L9i right away. Installing this one was kind of weird. I don't have access to the rear of my motherboard while it's in the case, so I had to take out the board again, get rid of the Silverstone backplate, and then basically install the motherboard to the heatsink instead of the other way around. Long story short, it made all the difference. Temps at idle are now in the low 30s, gaming keeps it in the high 50s/low 60s, and torture tests will push it to the mid-high 70s, but I mean, in a case like this, I can't ask for much better. As a final touch, I installed two more 40mm fans. One is right against the main exhaust vent (now occupying both sides of the GPU), and another sits at the front,blowing cool air at the drives (they would get up to 50C because the 1650 just dumps its hot air all over them in this layout), which never go over 35C now. There are now eight fans inside this case, and in case you're wondering, yes, having three 40mm fans in here makes the PC noisy, to say the least. I wouldn't say it's as bad as an old PS4 idling at Modern Warfare 2019's menus, though. And here is the finished product. Now, our final specs:
Basically, the only things that stayed the same are the RAM, motherboard, optical drive, and OS install. I'll probably upgrade the RAM to 16GB at some point, but other than that, that's as far as I'll take this one. Killing Floor 2? 1080p, 45-60FPS with near-max settings + Nvidia Flex. Bioshock Infinite? 1440p/60, maxed out. Minecraft with shaders? 1080p, 40-60fps with 16 chunk render distance. Rocket League? 120fps with 1080p and lower settings, but I ran it at 1440p/60 with high settings for a while. COD: Warzone? 1080p/50-60fps with "Normal" settings. That's all I've really tried so far, but these are feats that my PC in its older iterations couldn't even dream of. To so effortlessly chew through the games that I throw at it really blows me away. It really does feel like an entirely different machine, and I couldn't be more happy about it finally being complete. If you've read this far, I hope you enjoyed the journey, and all that I've done to keep my PC alive and well throughout the years. It's a little ugly and definitely unusual, and I could probably make it look much more pleasing if I got rid of the zip-tied and taped 40mm fans, but I like having any extra cooling I can afford. If you're a new builder or someone thinking of pulling the trigger, I hope that this post inspired you to do so. I've struggled at pretty much every turn, and ended up spending more money than I originally intended, but me and my PC came out of it alive, and it's running better than ever. In 2020, it'd probably be difficult to even call this a mid-range PC, but it accomplishes all that I need it to at speeds and settings that were once out of reach, and, considering the specs of this PC at the beginning of its life, it is, again, night and day. It was fun being able to get this intimate with a hobby I've never been able to enjoy before, and I'm really glad I decided to take this PC to the present and future with me instead of putting it in a closet like I planned to at the beginning of this year. Beyond possibly upgrading the RAM, my next project will be starting over from scratch, but that won't be for some time. Thanks for reading. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I’ve got a budget and no idea what to put in my tower... Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:10 AM PST So for Christmas I'm finally building a new setup after 9 years. I want to stick around $1,500 to $1,750 but I'm not opposed to push as far as 1.9 or 2k?? Some help would be greatly appreciated! [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| **NEW BUILD** NO HDD ACTIVITY LIGHT, NO HDMI OUTPUT/BOOT Posted: 29 Nov 2020 12:56 PM PST Ive built 3 computers before this with no problems. Specs,
Ive tried, re-seating ram, and gpu and all connections multiple times. The computer "turns" on, with all fans running and normal lights, graphics card lights, power lights. Mobo has no internal speaker IIRC. I double check that my F_panel wires are all good to go. Is it incompatible ram? Any guesses? [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:47 AM PST Does anyone know if an arctic freezer ii 280 would top mount in the Corsair 4000d airflow? [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| First Build & Monitor - Looking for Advice Posted: 29 Nov 2020 09:55 AM PST Hey there! Instead of purchasing the Xbox Series X I think I'd like to make the switch over to PC gaming and build my first rig! I admittedly don't know much about PCs and would appreciate some validation and advice from you guys. I primarily play Apex Legends and am looking forward to the new Halo. I also enjoy big open world games like Fallout and RDR2 when I can find the time. Bonus if I can do some multi-tasking for work (basic PPT, Excel, Zoom calls) but not necessary. My budget is $1500 CDN (without peripherals) and up to $400 CDN for a monitor. Will this build deliver a great 140fps at 1080p experience on Apex? Will I have a good experience at 1440p? There is limited availability for video cards. ASUS and Sapphire RX5700XT seem to be the only things in stock right now that suit my needs.
What specs in a monitor will get the most out of this build? I've been looking for 1440p, 144hz, 1ms. Something like this: https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/samsung-odyssey-27-wqhd-144hz-1ms-gtg-curved-va-led-freesync-gaming-monitor-lc27g55tqwnxza-black/14933344 Any validation or advice would be really reassuring for me! Thanks a bunch [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Any recommended monitors for a 3070? Posted: 29 Nov 2020 06:06 AM PST I am hoping to snatch a 3070 and I was wondering what type of monitor I would want to get. 1080p - 144hz, 200, 240 etc. 1440p - 144hz, 200, 240 etc? or anything else that I haven't listed such as panel type? i mainly game but also want to do some graphic design. I hope that helps. This is my first ever build so I am pretty confused by the sea of options out there. Edit: I am willing to save up for a few months to get a better monitor for my gpu if it is worth it. Any recommendations for specific monitors are also welcome! I am not sure how much I should be willing to spend on a monitor if I have a 500 dollar GPU tho? Should I be willing to spend 500? 1k? 400? Thanks! Edit 2:
Does anyone else agree with this? I just want to know if I should go and look for monitors with those specs. It seems like 1080p 240hz would be better for gaming but 1440p 144hz/165hz would be a better "all around" monitor. Is that correct? Please bear with me and my inexperience :). Edit 3: Is the HP Omen 27i good? Or should I go for the Lenovo Legion Y27q-20 ? which is better? Edit 4: does This look good? I don't know because some ppl are saying that 300ish is too little and yet u/xTWOODYx said that they have been enjoying this display and it looks like a really good deal for only 330$ on Newegg. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Moving an SSD from an Nvidia/intel system to all AMD/Radeon system Posted: 29 Nov 2020 01:35 PM PST Switching from an I5-4560 and GTX 970 to an entire new system with a AMD Ryzen 5600x and RX 6800. I was curious as to what I would need to do in order to use my current SSD's with operating systems and games on them, on the new system as primary drives. As I understand sometimes the intel and Nvidia drivers could potentially cause issues with the new hardware. Should have all of my parts within the next week approximately, so I was wondering what's the best way to go about swapping them over? [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Build Help - Upgrading parts with a lot of existing pieces Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:54 AM PST I'm looking to upgrade my motherboard, RAM, and processor while keeping a lot of my existing components. Will I run into any compatibility or performance issues with the below combination? This is for gaming. I'm getting pretty lost in what is or isn't important now spec-wise, and all the names/series blur together. For the 3 new components I'd like to stay under $1,000, but I can go up I have to. New Components
Existing Components
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| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:53 AM PST Hi, I'm migrating over from Xbox gaming to PC gaming this year due to the new GPU/CPU/console versions. I've used this subreddit a lot to help guide some of my decisions, so thank you for that. After deciding against getting a pre-built for Black Friday, I've purchased everything I think I will need except for the Aorus Master 3080 (can't find), Ryzen 5800x/5900x (can't find), PSU, and Samsung G9 (can't afford yet). The parts list I used is here. I would love some feedback/advice regarding the part selection, specifically, should I buy extra cables? I would like it to look as nice as possible and wouldn't mind putting some extra money in to get better looking cable management. From the LTT videos I've seen, things usually come with cables. Is there anything I might be missing? Hopefully I'll be able to find the CPU and GPU by the end of the year, but it's looking pretty bleak right now. Thanks in advance! Extra information: * I mainly play FPS (Call of Duty) * I also play Fallout, RDR, Witcher, and hopefully Cyberpunk 2077 * I would like it to work well with Valve Index + HL Alyx * I just bought most of those things this weekend, so I could still change parts out. EDIT (Nov 29, 2020 @ 3:09pm): 15 minutes after posting this I got a notification from Hotstock and have now purchased the AMD 5800x. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Have two users using the same pc? Posted: 29 Nov 2020 09:18 AM PST Hello everyone I hope this is the correct subreddit to ask this questions. My wife just got a work from home job and instead of just buying her a pc that meets the requirements I bought a prebuilt gaming pc instead of trying to get a ps5. Figured I'd kill two birds with one stone. She will be working m-f 12-9 I usually get home around 5. If possible how could she run her work stuff and me play games and such on a different monitor? I saw some info on multi seat but it looks like it needs 2 gpus Computer has a Ryzen 7 3700x, rtx 2060, 16gb Ram [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| What the hack is this? Lian li o11d xl rgb controller Posted: 29 Nov 2020 12:57 PM PST there is empty terminal out there, I think it connects to the rgb, but I don't know what kind of standard is this. I'd like to connect with my bitspower argb hub so that all of my rgbs can be changeable with m/c buttons in front of the case. Is there any possibility to connect all of the rgbs to m/c buttons? Personally I hate rgb software programs... [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Got shocked by psu power cable after unplugging. Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:39 AM PST https://imgur.com/gallery/qdm2I3S Hello guys... So i got shocked by the power cable of the psu while unplugging it from the cord or whatevet its said...Did i damaged anything ?? Got shocked by that part on the picture... So was it a shock or static electricity from me touching that part? PS: My mum moped the floor so it was a bit wet and i was with socks when i was unplugging it.. PS2 : I plugged and turned on the computer right after this happening everything looked fine and was working good but im still paranoid.. Did i damaged anything with what happened or its fine ?? I would appreciate any help.... Please... [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 12:49 PM PST Hi, sorry if this isn't the right subreddit to ask this question. I wasn't sure which one to ask on? I am trying to build a PC for music production, video editing, and gaming. I asked for a parts list in a PC Part Picker forum, and I was given this build. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rjhTrr I was hoping anyone could critique it or give me some advice on the parts. If you need more detail on the build and what it is for, here is the link to the forum. https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/382364-pc-for-music-production-video-editing-and-gaming If there are any problems with the links, leave a comment and I could try to fix it. To all who help, thank you so much. Edit: Also, sorry if I am bad with responses on parts. I am completely new to building a PC. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 12:32 PM PST Hey so I'm planning on building a new PC now my only concern pretty much is about CPU and motherboard. I want something for future prof that will last like 3 years or so and then Ill just need to upgrade the CPU only and not the whole motherboard. GPU wise and anything else I'm not really worried about. So does anyone know about what future AM4 motherboards are like? Or is it more worth going for LGA1200 motherboards just to not swap a motherboard in the future. Thanks for the time help and suggestions would be really appreciated [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 29 Nov 2020 11:34 AM PST Build Help/Ready:Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do) Yes. What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better. Gaming: Call of Duty Warzone; Cyberpunk 2077; Red Dead 2; Total War games at max settings; other AAA games coming out in the near future that we hope would run better on this than the new consoles If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, framerate, game settings) 120 FPS on AAA games What is your budget (ballpark is okay)? $1300 In what country are you purchasing your parts? USA Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).
Provide any additional details you wish below. My friend and I are building gaming rigs for the winter season. We have been following this subreddit for a long time and think it is finally the time to switch over from consoles. Thank you for all of your help! NOTE: You do not have to follow this format, but please be sure to answer these questions. Please do not ask to simply be given a build. You are welcome to delete this section. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| It took me almost 2 months to upgrade my PC Posted: 29 Nov 2020 07:41 AM PST Hello r/buildapc, I just wanted to share my story of how it took me almost two months to upgrade my PC. My PC was about 6 years old with i5 4690k, msi z97 (Gigabyte z87 for the past 2 years, after that one died), 16gb ram, r9 290 tri-x. In July, I upgraded my gpu to a used GTX 1070 TI and also delidded and overclocked my cpu to a stable 4.4 GHz. In the second week of October I ordered a Ryzen 5 3600, MSI B450-A PRO MAX, and 16 GB Corsair Vengence LPX (3200 MHz, CL16) from Amazon Germany. They dispatched the RAM almost immediately, the motherboard soon after, but the CPU went out of stock, even if it was in stock when I placed the order. So I wrote to the support and they put it on priority shipping. I remove the GPU, old motherboard, the cpu cooler (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 - I also ordered an am4 upgrade kit for the cooler), and start setting everything up, doing cable management in the process. I put the CPU in the mb, installed the RAM, install the cooler, put it in the case, plugged in power cables, fan cables, sata cables. Finally I'm at the point where I can start up the pc (before doing all the cable management and closing the case of course). I plug in the power cable and one monitor via hdmi cable. The PC immediately starts booting without even pressing the power button and I'm greeted with a not so welcoming message "Overcurrent detected in one of the USB ports. Shutting down in 15 seconds to prevent further damage." My first thought was that there's a problem with the front usb connectors on the case, so I disconnect them. Still no luck. I also disconnect the SATA cables, still no luck. At that point I basically only have the bare necessities plugged in (cpu, ram, cooler, gpu, cpu and mb power) and I still get the same message. So the only possibility is the MB, because RAM or CPU problems would be shown in a different way and everything else worked before. So I remove the motherboard and reinstall the old one. This time I didn't do any cable management in fact it looked like I undid the little cable management I did before. I power it on and it works like before. So I wrote to Amazon Support again asking for a replacement. They were kind enough to immediately issue the replacement and even told me I don't have to return the other one (because I would have to use international shipping). While I waited for the replacement to arrive, I also received an unsuspecting package. It was the RAM that was supposedly damaged in transit. Amazon actually wrote to me saying that I have to send it back or my card will be credited for the amount, so I wrote to the support saying that I will not be going to the post office for something that was not my mistake and they said to just keep the RAM. This past week I received the motherboard and on Friday I was finally able to upgrade the PC. This time it booted no problem on first try. So I ended with 32 GB RAM and I'm running it at 3200 MHz, CL16. Not too shabby for about 60€ that I paid for it. So these are currently my parts: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/rcRX2V. I don't have any photos because I'm using the old case (Aerocool Mechatron) and it doesn't really look that good and also I have, as bitwit would say, ketchup and mustard cables for the motherboard power. Thank you for coming to my TED talk. [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Is my mobo frying my network cards, or do they just stink? Posted: 29 Nov 2020 12:51 PM PST So here is my issue: (full specs at bottom) I upgraded my PC about 8 months ago, changing my motherboard to the ASROCK B450m Pro4. Before this upgrade, I would use a USB Wifi stick to fit my gaming internet needs. (I have no access to Ethernet at home). However, after the upgrade, the usb stick would drop the connection randomly, and so I searched through my house and found another USB Wifi stick just to see if the issue was MOBO related, or it was just a janky wifi stick. That USB stick seemed to perform slightly better, but would also just drop out. I have read somewhere on the internet of this MOBO sometimes having issues with the USB slots, so I said screw it, I'll try a wifi card. This was my first Wifi card that I tried on this PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NZ6DL9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Now, I know that often times with these cards you get what you pay for, and that is exactly what I got. The card worked amazing for about 2 weeks, then it turned into garbage. The connection would never drop entirely, but I would always get these insane ping spikes every 5 minutes. So I decided maybe this card is just busted, and I'll buy one that is a little better quality. This was the second card that I purchased for this PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Worked great for about 1.5 months, then turned into the old card; the connection would never drop entirely, but I would get insane ping spikes that lasts 5-10 seconds and would occur about every 5-15 minutes. Now, I am at school, with access to ethernet, and so I haven't had to worry about this issue. Ethernet works great on this motherboard; no issues no ping spikes. However, I am going to have to go back home soon and so I need a wifi solution. I can't use Powerline adapters. If you made it this far, I solute you. Here is the question I wanted to ask: Is it more likely a faulty motherboard that is killing my Wifi cards; i.e. should I go for a replacement mobo with built in wifi? Or, did I just happen to buy two shitty wifi cards, and I should buy another one and keep this mobo? If you think this is the case, do you know of one that will not give out after a few weeks/months? (Ideally, one under the price of just buying a new mobo w onboard wifi) Obviously replacing the motherboard is the more expensive option, and so I wanted to write this essay out first, to get some second opinions, before I go ahead and buy a new MOBO with built in wifi. THANKS FOR READING I appreciate you ;) SPECS: mobo: ASRock MicroATX Motherboard (B450M PRO4) GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon RX 580 GAMING 8G (rev. 2.0) Graphics Card CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 w Wraith Stealth Cooler (stock cooler) RAM: HyperX Fury 16GB 2666MHz DDR4 CL16 DIMM Storage: Some HDD I am not sure PSU: EVGA 500 W1 100-W1-0500-KR 80+ WHITE 500W Power Supply Case: InWin Mana 137 Mid Tower ATX [link] [comments] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| What in the unholy amount of fuck is going on with GPU prices Posted: 28 Nov 2020 03:36 PM PST 2 years ago, bitcoin became mainstream. That was when I was last wanting to buy a gpu but I said fuck those prices, I will wait it out. Well.. I am in the market now and holy FUCK What the hell happened? Did PC building explode in popularity concurrently alongside BTC mining? is it just a simple supply and demand thing? [link] [comments] |
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