Build a PC: Simple Questions - December 21, 2020 |
- Simple Questions - December 21, 2020
- Imma be real with you, after building my first pc some months ago I got more addicted to the hardware than actually using it. I wanna build more but its probably a waste of money and im kinda broke. Anyone else feel or felt this way (sorry if its not allowed here)
- Thank you to PCMasterrace and Buildapc for helping me with my first 500$ build!
- After 11 Years on Mac, I've Come Back to PC With My First Build
- Upgrading PC, hoping for motherboard advice for an Ryzen 9 5950X
- Help please, nothing is showing up on my screen but all components are working. Video linked for reference...
- A beginners guide to building a PC. For those that need it :)
- Got an SSD, how do I retain Windows 10?
- currently, I have a 2060 and 2600. (1080p 144hz) what GPU and CPU should I upgrade to if I want to play 1440p 144hz?
- What are some common things people forget before they start building? I.e. zip ties, tools, adapters.
- Building my first ever build tomorrow, what are some rookie mistakes I should avoid?
- What do you think about this RTX 3070 build?
- Is 98% GPu usage bad?
- Huge amount of Bluetooth lag/stutter/interruption with a brand new build
- Son building AMD Ryzen 5 system
- Is the i7 2600 (non K) Still good in 2020 900p?
- My worst nightmare just happened.
- 10700k or 5600x build at same price for gaming?
- Am I missing anything in this build
- First PC Build Attempt,
- Tips for my first Build
- Why you should avoid PSU tier lists at all cost. (And clearing some misconceptions).
- does anyone want my direct product link for an EVGA 3070 XC3?
- Ryzen 5000 / asus tuf b550m plus wifi bios cant get working
- Finished new b uild in an Obsidian d1000 case - need liquid cooling advice.
| Simple Questions - December 21, 2020 Posted: 21 Dec 2020 04:09 AM PST This thread is for simple questions that don't warrant their own thread (although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar and the wiki before posting!). Please don't post involved questions that are better suited to a [Build Help], [Build Ready] or [Build Complete] post. Examples of questions:
Remember that Discord is great places to ask quick questions as well: http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/wiki/livechat Important: Downvotes are strongly discouraged in this thread. Sorting by new is strongly encouraged. Have a question about the subreddit or otherwise for /r/buildapc mods? We welcome your mod mail! Looking for all the Simple Questions threads? Want an easy way to locate today's thread? This link is now in the sidebar below the yellow Rules section. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 10:03 AM PST title :) Edit: holy crap so many comments! Sorry if I can't reply to them all but know that I am happy for your reply's! [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Thank you to PCMasterrace and Buildapc for helping me with my first 500$ build! Posted: 20 Dec 2020 07:30 PM PST I have been on console for basically 6-7 years but after a while it got boring and I found myself needing a PC, instead of getting the Series X or PS5, I decided I might as well just build a decent PC that could game and multitask. I bought the RX 570 and Ryzen 5 1600 used for around 200$, which included the spire cooler. The PSU is the ARESGAME 500W and the case is the Apevia Prodigy. Parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HvNWJf Pictures: https://imgur.com/gallery/Mofa6eA Edit: WOW I didn't think this post would blow up. This made my day! Thanks everyone! [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| After 11 Years on Mac, I've Come Back to PC With My First Build Posted: 21 Dec 2020 09:16 AM PST Thank you to the PC community for all the insight and for making building my first PC relatively painless - aside from actually obtaining some of these parts. Getting it to post was a great feeling. Pic https://imgur.com/a/Ey0ne6v [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Upgrading PC, hoping for motherboard advice for an Ryzen 9 5950X Posted: 21 Dec 2020 05:51 AM PST Hey guys! It's finally time for me to upgrade my computer after endless years! I then thought I should go for the new Ryzen 9 5950X (this is the newest and best of the series?). With this I also am going with a 3080 when we can get them. So the only thing I am missing is a motherboard. Last time I built a pc I made the horrible error by not asking people that know these things so I ended up with a bottleneck motherboard. So what do I have to look for to make sure I harvest the most out of this processor? The motherboards I have in mind (cause those are the ones my computer shop has available) Last time I burnt myself on going for a lower chipset. So I have a feeling that I need the X570, is this correct? I also welcome any other tips! I just choose Asus as I have never had a problem with them. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 08:46 AM PST This keeps happening, the computer turns on, fans are going, gpu fans start up, keyboard and mouse light up but still nothing on the screen. HDMI is connected to GPU. I do power cycle resets very often and it does nothing, I've already reinstalled the ram, gpu, cpu, and cpu cooler. Specs: GPU: aorus 5700xt Mobo: aorus b550i CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Psu: be quiet sfx L - 600W Ram: T Force Delta 16gb - 3200mhz [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| A beginners guide to building a PC. For those that need it :) Posted: 21 Dec 2020 08:31 AM PST I see a lot of people on here asking questions about cabling, and power, and how to do basic level stuff. We've all been there and I know the people on this sub like to help. Anyways, I was scrolling through my news feed and saw this: https://www.tomsguide.com/news/how-to-build-gaming-pc-construction It's a beginners guide to building a PC. If this is considered a rule breaker for posting this link, my bad, and please remove it...just trying to help. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Got an SSD, how do I retain Windows 10? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 09:31 AM PST So, I built my PC maybe 5-6 years ago, have an old traditional hard drive that works ok, but wanted to install my OS on an SSD to make things faster. For my original OS, I was able to get Windows 8 OS on sale with the incentive I'd get Windows 10 for free. (This was when windows 10 was phasing in and all 8 users had a time frame to get 10 for free) and I was offered the free update to windows 10. I updated to Windows 10, and all has worked ok since, but will I lose Windows 10, the free update if I try to switch to the SSD? Or will I have to buy a new Windows 10 64 bit key? I've seen some 3rd party software products that claim to be able to transfer OS but haven't seen any good reviews, and it seems no one has had the problem of buying the Windows 8 software and then transferring the Windows 10 they got for free. TIA. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 10:09 AM PST I was thinking a 3600 with a 3060 Ti. Or should i get a 3600 and 2080 Ti? please help [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 10:09 AM PST Finally got my last few pieces on the way to start my first build. Now I'm just worried I will start without everything I need I plan on buying: •zip ties •magnetic screwdriver •magnetic screw plate Should I get extra screws? [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Building my first ever build tomorrow, what are some rookie mistakes I should avoid? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 09:16 AM PST | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| What do you think about this RTX 3070 build? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:25 PM PST GPU-Evga XC3 Ultra Gaming RTX 3070 CPU-AMD Ryzen 7 3700x Motherboard - Asus Rog Strix B450-F Case-Corsair Icue 220t Ram-Coreair Vengeance LPX 3200mhz 2x8gb Power supply - Corsair txm 750 80+ gold Nvme-Gigabyte M.2 256gb Ssd sata 3 - gigabyte 256gb Hard drive - Toshiba 2tb Fans-4 fans corsair rgb icue [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 10:10 AM PST So when I play for example cyberpunk on ultra with my 3060ti and ryzen 5 1600 usge is around 50% and when I tried the witcher 3 its at 98% so that got me confused [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Huge amount of Bluetooth lag/stutter/interruption with a brand new build Posted: 21 Dec 2020 05:55 AM PST UPDATE: I'm an idiot, yesterday when I built in this case I had the WiFi antennas in a position that wouldn't allow the gpu to be installed, so I removed them. I never reinstalled the antennas. The WiFi signal was really weak too, I only noticed while taking the build apart. Troubleshooting Help:What is your parts list? Consider formatting your parts list.
Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive. Bluetooth is extremely laggy, MX M<aster mouse is lagging while moving, Sony WH1000XM3 audio is chopping, stuttering and constantly interrupting. List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem. Tried reinstalling drivers, updating drivers, removing bluetooth devices. Nothing has worked. I've tried using 1 device at a time to see if this has any impact, it helped briefly but not for long. Post relevant photos of build/parts here. Replace this text with your answer. Provide any additional details you wish below. My old build I just moved from used a cheap Bluetooth 4.0 USB dongle, I could connect the same headphones and mouse easily with no issues. I would also connect 1-2 controllers to be playing with and had no problems. I'm really struggling to pinpoint what I can do to fix this. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Son building AMD Ryzen 5 system Posted: 21 Dec 2020 01:41 PM PST My son is working on a tight budget and as a dad, I am using a 3rd gen CPU desktop and the last thing I did anything, I wrecked a GTX650Ti card! So I am seeking some wisdom from knowledgable people out on Reddit. My son wants to build his own PC. The specs as follows CPU : Ryzen5 2600X (6 core CPU) Motherboard : ASRock B450M Steel Legend AM4 Cooler Master Hyper H411R CPU cooler RAM : Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 3000MHz (2x 8GB) Storage: Crucial P1 500MB M.2 nvme GPU : MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Super Aero ITX A few questions ... 1) I suggested going for the Crucial P2 or Samsung 860EVO M.2 drive. I have read in a few plaes that the Samsung 840EVO doesn't support nvme and may not work on the B450M motherboard, so should I stick with the Crucial P1 or P2? 2) There are several types of 3000MHz RAM from Corsair listed. I forget the specific information, but the variation seems to be these clusters of numbers (for example 11-20-20-12 and so on - I don't recall the specific information). Does this make a difference to the motherboard? 3) Would it be better to get 3200MHz or 3400MHz DDR4 instead of 3000Mz RAM with the B450M motherboard. I have no idea and not sure if it would be a good idea .... as a dad, I would think "bigger number is better!" - but this could be completely wrong! :) 4) Is the cooler (Cooler Master Hyper 411R) a good match for the Ryzen 2600X CPU? 5) Would the MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Super Aero ITX be okay with the motherboard (B450M)? Thank you (from an obsolescent dad trying to keep up with the new generation ... or kids and technology!) [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Is the i7 2600 (non K) Still good in 2020 900p? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 01:27 PM PST Is the I7 2600 still good in 2020 for gaming with a 900p monitor? Because i'm planning to keep my i7 2600 for at least 3 years with a GTX 1660 till I upgrade. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| My worst nightmare just happened. Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:51 PM PST I just finished my new build. First one in 8 years. 3080 FTW3 Ultra, 5600x, the dream. I had it booted and playing without a case on its static film and box so I can install windows and download games and update drivers. Everything worked amazingly. I stared at it for a long time. This was just yesterday, then today, I get my case, install everything into my case... start it up.... And there was a spark at the pcie connectors for the 3080 with a loud pop. Now nothing is working, and mobo won't post, even without the 3080. Not sure where to start with this, not sure how to proceed. But we're gonna figure it out. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 10700k or 5600x build at same price for gaming? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 11:12 AM PST what to choose between a 10700k with z490 or 5600x with b550 build, both at same price? only care about gaming and will keep it at least 5 years before thinking of upgrading, only for games. or is it better to go with something like 10600/k and b460/z490? i dont plan to overclock but 10700 non k has only 2.9 ghz so want the k for higher stock clocks. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Am I missing anything in this build Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:42 PM PST Howdy, I was planning on building my pc (first time) in a few weeks but since I was surprised to get a 3070 for a good price it's all been moved up. Currently I'm still debating whether I go intel or AMD but since the 5900x isn't for sale it would have to be the 5950X. So that makes the question how little money do I want to own :P My main question however is, am I missing anything here? Since it's my first time doing this and only have knowdledge from reading stuff online I figured I'd just ask. (also do these builds make any sense I guess). AMD Ryzen 9 5950X processor or Intel Core i9 10900K [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 11:09 AM PST Hello Reddit people, I'm in the process of building my first PC (in Canada) after I accidentally bricked my laptop. As I need this built for school (and gaming) by mid January, and I don't really know what I'm doing, I'd appreciate any help I could get for the parts list. I built off from one of the PCparts guides, but made some modifications as some parts weren't available at the time, and I had a slightly higher budget than the build. I am mainly looking to make sure that none of my parts have any issues with each other, but if anyone has suggestions to save money or greatly improve the build for only a little extra I would really appreciate it. If I also need to buy anything beyond the parts and PC repair screwdrivers I would also appreciate being given a heads up. Thank you! [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2020 11:08 AM PST Hi currently I'm planing my first build after gaming 5 years on a completed build with a Intel I5-6500 and a MSI GTX 980. So far this is my planed build: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X MSI GForce RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero [Wi-Fi] G-Skill Trident Z Neo 2x 16Gb Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB Crucial MX500 2TB NZXT Kraken Z73 be quite! Dark Power Pro 11 850w 6 Corsair LL120 and 3 Corsair QL120 including 2 Corsiar lighting node pro and 3 Corsair lighting node core Corsair commander Pro Lian Li O-11 dynamic black Of course I would buy the gpu and the cpu only at msrp level but regardless I would like to save a few bucks but I don't know where. I would appreciate any tips especcialy on the configuration [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Why you should avoid PSU tier lists at all cost. (And clearing some misconceptions). Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:39 PM PST I've seen several times the PSU tier list being put here, and they just a gross oversimplification of how things work with several misunderstandings at best, or complete marketing BS at worst, So I'll go into detail. First, lets dive into the methodology of the tier list at LTT. https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/
There are several problems with these requirements: For one, ATX specifications set the requirements perfectly, any PSU that meets them is complaint and safe and can be used in any PC. (In fact it would be a problem of the rest of the PC if it needed a power supply with ''better'' specs than that). For example, noise at 12V rail at 120 mV peak to peak max. (btw 120 mV peak to peak of noise is already a very good value in general switch mode power supply design, and this is the noise of the power supply alone tested in special conditions (PSU alone connected to a resistive load, a few capacitors IIRC), turns out that graphics cards and motherboards add a lot of capacitance to the system, greatly reducing the noise after all. What I mean is that, even a power supply that has a noise above the ATX spec, it will most likely still work without issues on most PCs. And here we are in 2020 creating list of power supplies with ripple under 50 mV xd. If you want a PSU with that low ripple go for it, but it has to be clear that you're not getting anything from it. And more importantly, a PSU meeting those tier requirements does not tell you if the power supply is more reliable or safer by any mean. The PSU being LLC resonant just means that it is more efficient (and also more complex and expensive). It could be argue that a LLC resonant design is in fact less reliable than a old half bridge due to its complexity, in those power supplies they even use ICs as bleeder resistors and mosfets controlled by ICs do to the work of a simple diode. And it also could be argue that requiring DC-DC would make the PSU less safe, because it is easier to have a overvoltage fault in this case. For example all you need to have 12V at your 5V rail is the transistor of the DC-DC buck converter failing short (and that can be caused by ESD). In older power supplies without DC-DC it is not that simple, and basically impossible because the 5V and 3.3V regulation is done at the primary side. In other words, if the primary side transistors that regulate the secondary voltages fail in those older power supplies, what happens is that the power supply stops working, because the primary is isolated from the secondary by the main transformer, the transistors at the primary either stop switching or fail short which in both cases translates to the secondary having the output voltage dropping to 0, you can't have DC thru a transformer. In these old power supplies the only way for a overvoltage to happen is via a open feedback fault, which is a very VERY rare thing (the feedback loop is not something that is stressed in a power supply), and if anything you quadruple your chances of a open feedback loop in a DC-DC power supply because: There's the main feedback loop thru optocoupler for the 12V rail. Plus: A feedback loop for the 5V buck converter. A feedback loop for the 3.3V buck converter. A feedback loop for the -12V voltage inverter. Now of course I'm not saying that a DC-DC power supply is not safe, after all the power supply has the monitor IC that will shut down the computer if that were to happen (And they also often have open feedback protection on top). But with this information it can be said that the power supply with DC-DC is less safe. Moving on, The <3% regulation requirements for the 12V rail sounds pretty and all, but useless in practice. contrary to popular belief computers in general are in fact very tolerant to over voltage and under voltage situations. For example, your modern CPU has a vcore is about 1V, how this vcore is created thru a synchronous buck converter in the motherboard, the so called VRM, which I don't like as a term due to its generic nature, it is like calling a GPU a computer component all the time. And the funny thing is that when we talk about DC-DC power supplies here you do often see the term buck being used, but whatever, moving on. It works on the principle of negative feedback (feedback loop),just like modern power supplies can work with a voltage range from 90 to 265V, your computer internally also has quite a range. testing the actual limits is something I always wanted to check in a lab. in theory if all protections can be disabled (because turns out motherboards are also adding over and under voltage protections) most PCs might be able to work with a voltage range from 8 to 16V. The lower limit would be determined by the maximum duty cycle that the internal buck converters of the PC can have, and the upper limit is due to some having 16V capacitors in the 12V rail. The only things to watch out for would be the hard drive motors, No idea of what would happen if the motor of a hard drive spins faster or slower than usual. ATX spec sets the overvoltage protection at a maximum 15.6V. The internal ICs and transistors of motherboard often have a max voltage of 25V, it might be possible that a few motherboards might be able to work with a input voltage all the way to 20V. xd And If anything, given how nvidia measures the power consumption of their cards, having a higher input voltage leads to better performance. There was a video of a guy testing a gpu with and without daisy chained power connectors and found out that with daisy chained connectors the GPU performed a bit worse, this is because of the voltage drop in the wires, at lower voltage the GPU (due to the fact that it also uses a synchronus buck converter) increases its duty cycle and draws more current from the power supply, and since the GPU measures its current input to determine its power draw, it will think that it is at the power limit sooner at 11.5V than at 12.6V for example. I feel like I'm giving overclockers an idea, this is something that has to be done carefully, you would need to reverse engineer a good part of the motherboard/GPU to determine if it can take something like 18V. I think this obsession with voltage tolerances and ripple levels can be traced back to the old times when PCs where significantly different than now. In the old times your CPU vcore was 5V or 3.3V, basically the voltage being put out by the power supply was the voltage getting to your CPU directly, in those cases noise levels and voltage tolerances played a major role. But now that everything has its own regulation not so much. And the minor rails are being phased out, nobody uses them anymore, server power supplies got rid of them, and OEM makers were implementing 12V Only power supplies into their systems for a decade already, and now Intel has created the ATX12VO standard that hopefully will be adopted quickly. And here we are in 2020 measuring the performance of power supplies in unrealistic cross load scenarios. In fact this whole better cross load performance was the thing that lead to the DC-DC creation, basically we created and problem to sell a solution. Now on capacitors, there are a few things that need to be clear out. the current obsession of capacitor quality was the result of the capacitor plague. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague The thing is that the capacitor plague ended over a decade ago, there's no longer a huge failure rate in cheap capacitors, if anything what has happened is that Japanese manufactures took it as an opportunity to start price fixing: And fans, well I don't even know where to begin, we never had a fan plague or anything similar, I still have several sleeve bearing fans that I removed from very old almost 20 year old power supplies that died as result of the capacitor plague that still work perfectly. And you would be surprised of how common this is in general that old recommendations still persist. I still often see people recommending practices that help with the lifespan of NiMH cells on lithium devices, even though NiMH hasn't been a thing in portable computers in the last 20 years of so. One of those is 'wait for the battery to drain completely before recharging' which was a thing to avoid the memory effect of the nickel batteries, it is not a thing in lithium or any other battery chemistry.
Now here it is something good, requiring OTP, now it is important to be clear that not having OTP while not complying with the ATX standard it is still safe if the power supply is able to give its rated power at high ambient temperatures, and that is very easy to make (just use overrated parts in your design, it can be in fact cheaper than just implementing the OTP). The funny thing is that this tier list says that the N1 is Potentially dangerous in multiple scenarios. Even though it passed all tests: https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/07/13/evga-400-n1-power-supply/ While it fails to mention that the B3 series had a problem where they would fail if overloaded which I really can't stress of how much of a design error that is. The B3 series blows up because the maker didn't calibrate the OPP correctly, in other words, the power supplies will blow up because someone didn't the right value resistor in them. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-450-b3-psu,5160.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-750-b3-power-supply,5229.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-850-b3-psu,5186.html So now that you read this wall of text you might be wondering how do I know to pick a good and safe power supply, and well this can be resumed in a very short list. Comply with all ATX12V requirements. And even if it doesn't (lacking OTP) as long as the power supply can give its output power at high ambient temperatures (like the N1) it will work. And for those advanced users, please try to learn a little on how the power supplies themselves work instead of just comparing designs, like going into the schematics, reverse engineering, etc. I was reading comments on that tier list and I often find people talking about the changes of several revisions of PSU manufacturers, like they see one model and already know who made it, while at the same time provide say nothing regarding on how the power supply works, advantages or disadvantages of topologies, etc. I really feel like the PC enthusiast community is turning into something like the audiophile community where you have people buying all types of expensive equipment based on complete misconceptions of how DACs or Opamps work. Like just to give an example, part of the audiophile community doesn't like digital sound because apparently 'you can hear the steps' on the wave. This is something that even hardware makers at taking advtange of in their marketing. For example when comparting 16 bit vs 24 bit you will often see less steps on the 24 bit waveform, and that leads to the conclusion that 24 bit sounds 'better'.In reality that stepped waveform goes to the low pass filter of the DAC, and you end up with a smooth waveform that was 99.99% like the original one (and the difference is due to noise at -90 dB or so). This is the whole Shannon–Hartley theorem. WHILE AT THE SAME TIME, THESE PEOPLE OFTEN PREFER NOS DACs OVER REGULAR ONES. NOS DACs are DACs without the low pass filter, those DACs literary output the stepped waveform, which just means there's a lot of high frequency noise in it, and they buy into that bs because it 'has a higher bandwidth'. omg. I really don't want the PC enthusiast community to turn into something like it, so that's why I wrote this whole text. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| does anyone want my direct product link for an EVGA 3070 XC3? Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:34 PM PST I just got my direct product link after sitting in the queue for this card for quite some time now.. I have since gotten an rx 6800 so i don't have a need for this card anymore. if anyone is looking to buy this 3070 i'll be happy to send my link. [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Ryzen 5000 / asus tuf b550m plus wifi bios cant get working Posted: 21 Dec 2020 09:40 AM PST Hi all I have a (1) asus tuf b550m plus wifi board and (2) Ryzen 5600x CPU. I am putting these together from scratch and am aware I need to update the BIOS before I can actually boot the 5600x as currently if I try, nothing loads on a monitor. I have followed the instructions for updating the BIOS from ASUS. (1) Format USB, (2) download BIOS file and do use the renamer (3) turn power on to the motherboard without turning system on and (4) putting usb in correct BIOS usb slot and holding down BIOS button After this I get the green BIOS light that blinks 3 times and then the green light just stays on. Can anyone please advise what I can do and if this is supposed to happens ? [link] [comments] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Finished new b uild in an Obsidian d1000 case - need liquid cooling advice. Posted: 21 Dec 2020 12:17 PM PST As the title says, I just finished my new build in a massive d1000 case. I'll try to keep this brief but figured I should mention the basic specs in case it's relevant to the question regarding a water cooling choice. Ryzen 7 3700x 16gb CL14 G.Skill DDR4-3600 Samsung Evo 970 Pro nVme Asus Prime X-570 Pro motherboard EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 EVGA 850w PSU Corsair Obsidian D1000 case I have always thought liquid cooling setups were neat but never had the time or resources to do one myself. I am not a hardcore OC'er who needs my hardware to hover around 0 kelvin. I just want a liquid cooling setup that looks cool and is fun to tinker with. Would much prefer the solid piping type, whatever the name for it is.. I keep forgetting. I mean the clear piping that is rigid and transparent. Budget is $500 or so. Thanks all! [link] [comments] |
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